Eminyakeni embalwa edlule, iKingston ibone ukwanda kwezindawo zokudlela ezintsha. Kukhona ama-noodle e-ramen angempela, izitsha ze-poke, ama-dumplings, ukudla okudliwayo kwaseTurkey, i-pizza ephekwe ngokhuni, ama-donuts, kanye nokudla okusha kwaseMelika. Izindawo zokudlela zase-Asia nezitolo ze-taco ziningi. Kodwa kwabaningi, okuhlanganisa nombhali nomhlali waseMumbai onezinwele ezimhloshana, ongaziwa ukuthi wazalelwa eMumbai, ukuntuleka kwendawo yokudlela yaseNdiya - ngisho nenhlobo yengadi, i-chicken tikka, i-smorgasbord, nokunye okunjalo - kuyinto enkulu. Kodwa ekugcineni, ekugcineni, ukudla kwaseNdiya (nokudla okuyisisekelo) sekuseBroadway edolobheni laseKingston ngenxa yokuvulwa kwamuva kweCalcutta Kitchen.
U-Aditi Goswami wakhulela emaphethelweni aseCalcutta ngasekupheleni kwawo-70 no-80 kanti ikhishi lomndeni laliwuchungechunge lwemicimbi kusukela ekudleni kwasekuseni kuya esidlweni sakusihlwa sasemini, kusukela etiyeni lantambama kuya ezidlweni zakusihlwa ezinkulu zomndeni. Nakuba uyise wayengumlimi okhuthele, ikhishi laliphethwe kakhulu ugogo wakhe. “Angazi impilo ngaphandle kokupheka. Uma ungapheki, awudli,” kusho uGoswami ngeNdiya ngaphambi kwenkathi yokudla okusheshayo ngaphambi kokuthatha ukudla, lapho izitofu zase ziseyinhliziyo yekhaya. “Ugogo wayengumpheki omuhle kakhulu. Ubaba wayengapheki nsuku zonke, kodwa wayengumuntu othanda ukudla okumnandi ngempela. Wayethenga zonke izithako futhi enaka kakhulu ubusha, ikhwalithi kanye nokuhambisana nesikhathi sonyaka. Yena nogogo wami Lowo owangifundisa ngempela ukuthi ngibheke kanjani ukudla, ukuthi ngicabange kanjani ngokudla.” Futhi, vele, ukuthi ngipheka kanjani ukudla.
Esebenza ngenkuthalo ekhishini, uGoswami wathatha imisebenzi efana nokuhluba uphizi kusukela eneminyaka emine, futhi amakhono akhe kanye nemithwalo yemfanelo kwaqhubeka kukhula waze waba neminyaka eyi-12 ubudala, lapho akwazi khona ukulungiselela ukudla okuphelele. Njengoyise, waba nothando lokulima ingadi. “Nginesithakazelo ekutshaleni nasekuphekeni ukudla,” kusho uGoswami, “okuba yini, ukuthi izithako zishintsha kanjani nokuthi zisetshenziswa kanjani ngendlela ehlukile ezitsheni ezahlukene.”
Ngemva kokushada eneminyaka engu-25 nokuthuthela e-United States, uGoswami waziswa ngesiko lokulethwa kokudla endaweni yokusebenza yaseMelika. Kodwa-ke, usalokhu ethembekile esikweni lakhe lokupheka ekhaya emaphandleni aseConnecticut, elungiselela umndeni wakhe nezivakashi ukudla ngendlela evamile, yendabuko yamaNdiya yokungenisa izihambi.
“Bengilokhu ngithanda ukuzijabulisa ngoba ngithanda ukupha abantu ukudla, hhayi ukwenza amaphathi amakhulu nokumema abantu esidlweni sakusihlwa,” kusho yena. “Noma noma ngabe balapha ukuzodlala nezingane, babanike itiye nokuthile kokudla.” Iziphakamiso zikaGoswami zenziwa kusukela ekuqaleni. Abangane nomakhelwane bajabule kakhulu.
Ngakho-ke, ekhuthazwa ontanga yakhe, uGoswami waqala ukwenza nokuthengisa amanye ama-chutney akhe emakethe yabalimi bendawo yaseConnecticut ngo-2009. Phakathi namasonto amabili, wasungula iCalcutta Kitchens LLC, yize esathi akanayo inhloso yokuqala ibhizinisi. Ama-chutney asethathelwe indawo ama-sauces abilayo, indlela emfushane yokwenza ukudla kwangempela kwaseNdiya ngezithako ezimbalwa. Konke lokhu kuyindlela yokushintshanisa lokho akuphekayo ekhaya, futhi izindlela zokupheka ziyatholakala ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa ukunambitheka.
Eminyakeni eyi-13 selokhu uGoswami asungula iCalcutta Kitchens, uhla lukaGoswami lwama-chutney, izitshulu kanye nezinongo luye lwakhula lwaba ukuthengiswa ezweni lonke, yize uhlobo lwakhe lokuqala noluthandayo lobudlelwano bomphakathi bekulokhu kuyimakethe yabalimi. Esitolo sakhe semakethe, uGoswami waqala ukuthengisa ukudla okulungisiwe kanye nokudla kwakhe okusemathinini, egxile ekudleni kwe-vegan kanye nokwemifino. “Angisoze ngakuqeda — ngiyabona isidingo sangempela sakho,” kusho yena. “Ukudla kwaseNdiya kuhle kakhulu kwabadla imifino kanye nabadla imifino, futhi ngisho nokungenagluten, asikho isidingo sokuzama ukuba ngohlukile.”
Ngayo yonke le minyaka yokuhlangenwe nakho, umqondo wokwakha isitolo waqala ukuvuthwa engqondweni yakhe. Eminyakeni emithathu edlule, uGoswami wathuthela eHudson Valley futhi konke kwahamba kahle. “Bonke abangani bami babalimi emakethe bavela kulesi sifunda,” kusho yena. “Ngifuna ukuhlala lapho behlala khona. Umphakathi wendawo uyakwazisa ngempela lokhu kudla.”
ENdiya, igama elithi “tiffin” libhekisela ekudleni okulula kwasemini, okulingana netiye lasemini e-UK, i-merienda eSpain, noma ukudla okulula kwangemva kwesikole okungathandeki nhlobo e-US – ukudla okushintshashintshayo phakathi kwesidlo sasemini nesakusihlwa okungaba mnandi. Leli gama lisetshenziswa futhi ngokushintshana ukuchaza indlela wonke umuntu kusukela ezinganeni zesikole kuya kubaphathi bezinkampani eNdiya asebenzisa ngayo izitsha zensimbi engagqwali ezihlanganisiwe ukupakisha ukudla kwabo ngezingxenye ezahlukene zezitsha ezahlukene. (Emadolobheni amakhulu, uchungechunge olubanzi lwezindawo zokudlela ezimotweni zezitimela namabhayisikili luletha ukudla okusha okushisayo kusuka ekhishini lasekhaya ngqo ezindaweni zokusebenza – ukulethwa kokudla kwe-OG eGrub-Hub.)
UGoswami akathandi ukudla okukhulu futhi uyasikhumbula lesi sici sempilo eNdiya. “ENdiya, ungaya kulezi zindawo uyophuza itiye nokudla okusheshayo,” kusho yena. “Kunama-donuts nekhofi, kodwa angifuni njalo ukudla okumnandi, isandwich enkulu noma ipuleti elikhulu. Ngifuna nje ukudla okulula okuncane, okuthile okuphakathi.”
Kodwa-ke, akacabangi ukuthi angasigcwalisa igebe ekudleni kwaseMelika. UGoswami, owayehlala unomphela ezimakethe zabalimi zaseChord naseKingston, waqala ukufuna ukudla okudayiswayo. Umngane wakhe wamethula kumnikazi wendlu e-448 Broadway eKingston, lapho kwakukhona khona i-Artisan Bakery. “Lapho ngibona lesi sikhala, konke okwakujikeleza ekhanda lami kwavele kwaqondana,” kusho uGoswami – ama-tiffin, umugqa wakhe, izithako zokudla zaseNdiya.
“Ngesikhathi nginquma ukuvula eKingston, ngangingazi ukuthi akukho ndawo yokudlela yamaNdiya lapha,” kusho uGoswami emomotheka. “Bengingafuni ukuba yiphayona. Bengihlala lapha futhi ngiyayithanda iKingston ngakho bengicabanga ukuthi kuzoba kuhle. Kwaba sengathi kwenziwa ngesikhathi esifanele nasendaweni efanele.
Selokhu avula ngoMeyi 4, uGoswami ubelokhu epha ukudla kwaseNdiya okwenziwe ekhaya izinsuku ezinhlanu ngesonto esitolo sakhe e-448 Broadway. Ezintathu zazo zazingezokudla imifino kanti ezimbili zaziyinyama. Ngaphandle kwemenyu, upheka noma yini ayifunayo ngokusekelwe esimweni sezulu kanye nezithako zesizini. “Kufana nekhishi likamama wakho,” kusho uGoswami. “Ungena ubuze, 'Kuyini ukudla kwakusihlwa namuhla ebusuku? Ngithi, “Ngikuphekile lokhu,” bese uyadla. “Ekhishini elivulekile, ungabona amaGoswami esebenza, futhi kufana nokudonsa isihlalo etafuleni lokudlela lomuntu ngenkathi eqhubeka nokusika nokuvuselela nokuxoxa phezu kwamahlombe akhe.
Imikhiqizo yansuku zonke ishicilelwa nge-Instagram Stories. Izidlo ezisheshayo zakamuva zifaka i-chicken biryani kanye ne-koshimbier, isaladi ejwayelekile ebandayo yaseNingizimu Indian, i-googni, i-dry pea Bengali curry ekhonzwa ne-tamarind chutney kanye nama-sweet buns. “Izitsha eziningi zaseNdiya ziwuhlobo oluthile lwesitshulu,” kusho uGoswami. “Yingakho kunambitheka kangcono ngosuku olulandelayo.” I-paratha Isinkwa esiqandisiwe esinjengalesi. Kukhona netiye elishisayo kanye ne-cold lemonade ukuze kube mnandi.
Izimbiza zamasosi nama-chutney abilayo avela ekudleni kwaseKolkata zigcwele izindonga zesikhala sekhoneni esikhanyayo nesinomoya, kanye nezindlela zokupheka ezikhethwe ngokucophelela. I-Goswami ithengisa futhi ukudla okuyisisekelo kwaseNdiya, kusukela emifino efakwe usawoti kuya elayisi le-basmati elitholakala yonke indawo, izinhlobo ezahlukene ze-dal (lentile) kanye nezinye izinongo ezitholakala kalula kodwa ezibalulekile njenge-hing (asafetida). Ngaphakathi nangaphakathi kwendlela kukhona amatafula e-bistro, izihlalo zezandla kanye netafula elide lomphakathi lapho uGoswami enethemba lokuthi ngelinye ilanga uzoba nekilasi lokupheka laseNdiya.
Okungenani kulo nyaka, uGoswami uzoqhubeka nokusebenza eKingston Farmers' Market, kanye nasezimakethe zanyanga zonke eLarchmont, ePhoenicia nasePark Slope. “Engikwaziyo nengikwenzayo bekungeke kufane ngaphandle kobungane obuhlala njalo enginabo namakhasimende, futhi impendulo yabo ithonya engikwenzayo kanye nesipiliyoni engisinikezayo,” kusho yena. “Ngibonga kakhulu ngolwazi engiluthole emakethe yabalimi futhi nginomuzwa wokuthi ngidinga ukuqhubeka nokuxhumana.”
Amathegi: indawo yokudlela, ukudla kwaseNdiya, i-tiffin, ukudla okudliwayo kwaseNdiya, indawo yokudlela yaseKingston, indawo yokudlela yaseKingston, imakethe ekhethekile, isitolo sokudla saseNdiya, ukudla kwaseKolkata, i-adigoswami