I nā makahiki i hala iho nei, ua ʻike ʻo Kingston i ka ulu nui ʻana o nā hale ʻaina hou. Aia nā noodles ramen maoli, nā kīʻaha poke, nā dumplings, nā meaʻai lawe ʻia Turkish, ka pizza i puhi ʻia i ka wahie, nā donuts, a, ʻoiaʻiʻo hoʻi, nā meaʻai ʻAmelika hou. Nui nā hale ʻaina ʻĀkia a me nā hale kūʻai taco. Akā no nā mea he nui, me ka mea kākau lauoho melemele, i hānau ʻia ma Mumbai a me ka kamaʻāina, ʻo ka nele o kahi hale ʻaina India - ʻoiai he ʻano māla, moa tikka, smorgasbord, a me nā mea like - he mea nui ia. Akā ʻo ka hope loa, ʻo ka meaʻai India (a me nā meaʻai nui) ma Broadway ma ke kikowaena o Kingston mahalo i ka wehe ʻana o Calcutta Kitchen.
Ua ulu ʻo Aditi Goswami ma waho o Calcutta i ka hopena o nā makahiki 70 a me 80 a ʻo ka lumi kuke ʻohana he moʻo o nā hanana mai ka ʻaina kakahiaka a i ka ʻaina ahiahi awakea, mai ke kī awakea a i nā ʻaina ahiahi ʻohana nui. ʻOiai he māla makemake nui kona makuakāne, ʻo ka hapa nui o ka lumi kuke no kona kupuna wahine. "ʻAʻole au i ʻike i ke ola me ka ʻole o ka kuke ʻana. Inā ʻaʻole ʻoe e kuke, ʻaʻole ʻoe e ʻai," wahi a Goswami no India ma mua o ka wā o ka meaʻai wikiwiki ma mua o ka lawe ʻana, i ka wā i lilo ai nā kapuahi i puʻuwai o ka home. "He kuke maikaʻi koʻu kupuna wahine. ʻAʻole kuke koʻu makuakāne i kēlā me kēia lā, akā he mea ʻono maoli ʻo ia. Ua kūʻai ʻo ia i nā meaʻai a pau a ua nānā nui i ka hou, ka maikaʻi a me ke kau. ʻO ia a me koʻu kupuna wahine ka mea nāna i aʻo maoli iaʻu pehea e nānā ai i ka meaʻai, pehea e noʻonoʻo ai i ka meaʻai." A, ʻoiaʻiʻo, pehea e kuke ai i ka meaʻai.
Ma ka hana pono ʻana ma ka lumi kuke, ua lawe ʻo Goswami i nā hana e like me ka ʻili ʻana i ka pī mai ka wā ʻehā o kona mau makahiki, a ua hoʻomau ʻia kona mau akamai a me nā kuleana a hiki i kona piha ʻana i ka 12 o kona mau makahiki, i ka wā i hiki ai iā ia ke hoʻomākaukau i kahi pāʻina piha. E like me kona makuakāne, ua ulu ʻo ia i ka makemake no ka māla. "Makemake au i ka ulu ʻana a me ka kuke ʻana i ka meaʻai," wahi a Goswami, "he aha ka mea e lilo ai i mea, pehea e hoʻololi ai nā mea hoʻohui a pehea e hoʻohana ʻia ai lākou i nā kīʻaha like ʻole."
Ma hope o ka male ʻana i ka makahiki 25 a me ka neʻe ʻana i ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa, ua hoʻolauna ʻia ʻo Goswami i ka moʻomeheu lawe meaʻai ma o kahi wahi hana ʻAmelika. Eia nō naʻe, ke kūpaʻa nei ʻo ia i kāna kuʻuna kuke home ma nā kuaʻāina ʻo Connecticut, e hoʻomākaukau ana i nā meaʻai no kona ʻohana a me nā malihini ma ke ʻano hoʻokipa maʻamau a kuʻuna o India.
“Ua makemake mau wau e leʻaleʻa no ka mea makemake wau e hānai i nā kānaka, ʻaʻole e hoʻolei i nā pāʻina nui a kono wale i nā kānaka no ka ʻaina ahiahi,” wahi āna. “A i ʻole inā paha eia lākou e pāʻani me nā keiki, e hāʻawi iā lākou i ke kī a me kahi mea e ʻai ai.” Ua hana ʻia nā manaʻo o ka Goswami mai ka wā ʻole. Ua hauʻoli nui nā hoaaloha a me nā hoalauna.
No laila, me ka hoʻoikaika ʻia e kona mau hoa, ua hoʻomaka ʻo Goswami e hana a kūʻai aku i kekahi o kāna mau chutney ma kahi mākeke mahiʻai o Connecticut i ka makahiki 2009. I loko o ʻelua pule, ua hoʻokumu ʻo ia iā Calcutta Kitchens LLC, ʻoiai ke ʻōlelo nei ʻo ia ʻaʻohe ona manaʻo e hoʻomaka i kahi ʻoihana. Ua hāʻawi ʻia nā chutney i nā mea ʻala simmering, kahi ala pōkole i ka hana ʻana i ka meaʻai India maoli me nā mea liʻiliʻi. He mau hoʻololi kēia a pau o kāna mea e kuke ai ma ka home, a loaʻa nā meaʻai me ka ʻole o ka nalowale o ka ʻono.
I loko o nā makahiki he 13 mai ka hoʻomaka ʻana o Goswami iā Calcutta Kitchens, ua ulu ka laina o nā chutneys, stews a me nā hui mea ʻala a Goswami i ke kūʻai aku ma ka ʻāina holoʻokoʻa, ʻoiai ʻo kāna ʻano mua a punahele o ka pilina lehulehu, ʻo ia nā mākeke mahiʻai. Ma kāna hale kūʻai mākeke, ua hoʻomaka ʻo Goswami e kūʻai aku i nā meaʻai i hoʻomākaukau ʻia me kāna meaʻai i loko o ka pahu, e loea ana i ka meaʻai vegan a me ka meaʻai vegetarian. "ʻAʻole hiki iaʻu ke hoʻopau - ʻike wau i kahi pono maoli no ia," wahi āna. "He mea maikaʻi ka meaʻai India no ka poʻe vegetarians a me nā vegans, a ʻoiai ʻaʻohe gluten, ʻaʻohe pono e hoʻāʻo e ʻokoʻa."
Me kēia mau makahiki o ka ʻike, ua hoʻomaka ka manaʻo o ke kūkulu ʻana i hale kūʻai e oʻo i kahi ma hope o kona manaʻo. ʻEkolu makahiki i hala aku nei, ua neʻe ʻo Goswami i ke awāwa ʻo Hudson a ua kūpono nā mea a pau. "No kēia ʻāina mai koʻu mau hoaaloha mahiʻai a pau ma ka mākeke," wahi āna. "Makemake au e noho ma kahi a lākou e noho ai. Mahalo nui ke kaiāulu kūloko i kēia meaʻai."
Ma India, ʻo ka "tiffin" e pili ana i kahi pāʻina awakea māmā, e like me ke kī awakea ma UK, merienda ma Sepania, a i ʻole ka meaʻai māmā ma hope o ke kula ma US - kahi pāʻina hoʻololi ma waena o ka ʻaina awakea a me ka ʻaina ahiahi hiki ke ʻono. Hoʻohana ʻia ka huaʻōlelo me ke ʻano like ʻole e wehewehe i ke ʻano o nā mea āpau mai nā keiki kula a i nā luna hoʻokele ʻoihana ma India e hoʻohana ai i nā pahu kila kila e hoʻopaʻa i kā lākou ʻai me nā keʻena like ʻole no nā kīʻaha like ʻole. (Ma nā kūlanakauhale nui, kahi kaulahao nui o nā hale ʻaina ma nā kaʻa kaʻaahi a me nā paikikala e hāʻawi i nā meaʻai wela hou mai nā lumi kuke home pololei i nā wahi hana - OG food delivery i Grub-Hub.)
ʻAʻole makemake ʻo Goswami i nā pāʻina nui a ua minamina ʻo ia i kēia ʻano o ke ola ma India. "Ma India, hiki iā ʻoe ke hele mau i kēia mau wahi no ke kī a me ka meaʻai wikiwiki," wahi āna. "Aia nā donuts a me ke kofe, akā ʻaʻole au makemake mau i ka niho ʻono, kahi sanwika nui a i ʻole kahi pā nui. Makemake wale au i kahi meaʻai māmā liʻiliʻi, kahi mea ma waena."
Eia naʻe, ʻaʻole ʻo ia i manaʻo e hiki iā ia ke hoʻopiha i kahi hakahaka i ka meaʻai ʻAmelika. ʻO Goswami, ka mea i noho mau ma nā mākeke mahiʻai o Chord lāua ʻo Kingston, ua hoʻomaka ʻo ia e ʻimi i nā meaʻai kālepa. Ua hoʻolauna kekahi hoaaloha iā ia i ka mea nona ka hale kūʻai ʻo 448 Broadway ma Kingston, kahi i kū ai ka Artisan Bakery ma mua. "I koʻu ʻike ʻana i kēia wahi, ua hāʻule koke nā mea a pau e wili ana i loko o koʻu poʻo i kahi," wahi a Goswami - nā ʻaina awakea, kāna laina, nā meaʻai India.
"I koʻu hoʻoholo ʻana e wehe ma Kingston, ʻaʻole au i ʻike ʻaʻohe hale ʻaina ʻInia ma ʻaneʻi," wahi a Goswami me ka minoʻaka. "ʻAʻole au makemake e lilo i paionia. Ua noho wale au ma ʻaneʻi a aloha au iā Kingston no laila ua manaʻo wau he mea maikaʻi ia. Me he mea lā ua hana ʻia i ka manawa kūpono a ma kahi kūpono."
Mai kona wehe ʻana ma Mei 4, ua lawelawe ʻo Goswami i ka meaʻai India hana lima i ʻelima mau lā o ka pule ma kāna hale kūʻai ma 448 Broadway. ʻEkolu o lākou he mea kanu mea kanu a ʻelua he ʻiʻo. Me ka ʻole o kahi papa kuhikuhi, kuke ʻo ia i nā mea āna e makemake ai ma muli o ke aniau a me nā meaʻai o ke kau. "Ua like ia me ka lumi kuke o kou makuahine," wahi a Goswami. "Hele ʻoe i loko a nīnau, 'He aha ka ʻaina ahiahi i kēia pō? ʻŌlelo wau, "Ua kuke au i kēia," a laila ʻai ʻoe. "Ma ka lumi kuke ākea, hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ka Goswami e hana ana, a ua like ia me ka huki ʻana i kahi noho i ka papa ʻaina a kekahi ʻoiai lākou e hoʻomau nei i ka ʻokiʻoki a me ka hoʻoulu a me ke kamaʻilio ʻana ma luna o ko lākou mau poʻohiwi.
Hoʻopuka ʻia nā huahana o kēlā me kēia lā ma o nā moʻolelo Instagram. ʻO nā meaʻai māmā hou loa e komo pū ana me ka moa biryani a me ka koshimbier, kahi salakeke India Hema anu maʻamau, googni, ka pea maloʻo Bengali curry i lawelawe ʻia me ka chutney tamarind a me nā buns momona. "ʻO ka hapa nui o nā kīʻaha India he ʻano stew," wahi a Goswami. "ʻO ia ke kumu e ʻono ai i ka lā aʻe." paratha Makemake nā berena palahalaha hau i kēia. Aia pū kekahi kī wela a me ka lemonade anu e hoʻomāʻona i ka ʻai.
Hoʻomoe nā ʻōmole o nā mea ʻono e hoʻolapalapa ana a me nā chutney mai ka meaʻai a Kolkata ma nā paia o kahi kihi mālamalama a ea, me nā meaʻai i koho pono ʻia. Kūʻai aku ʻo Goswami i nā meaʻai nui o India, mai nā mea kanu i kāpī ʻia a hiki i ka laiki basmati ma nā wahi āpau, nā ʻano dal (lentils) like ʻole a me kekahi mau mea ʻala paʻakikī ke loaʻa akā koʻikoʻi e like me hing (asafetida). Ma luna a ma loko o ke alanui hele wāwae aia nā papa bistro, nā noho lima a me kahi papa ʻaina lōʻihi kahi e manaʻolana ai ʻo Goswami e loaʻa i kahi papa kuke India i kekahi lā.
No kēia makahiki ma ka liʻiliʻi loa, e hoʻomau ʻo Goswami i ka hana ma ka Kingston Farmers' Market, a me nā mākeke mahina ma Larchmont, Phoenicia a me Park Slope. "ʻO kaʻu mea i ʻike ai a hana ai, ʻaʻole ia e like me ka ʻole o nā pilina mau me nā mea kūʻai aku, a ʻo kā lākou manaʻo e hoʻohuli i kaʻu hana a me ka ʻike aʻu e hāʻawi ai," wahi āna. "Mahalo nui wau no ka ʻike i loaʻa iaʻu mai ka mākeke mahiʻai a manaʻo wau e pono iaʻu e hoʻomau i kēlā pilina."
Nā Lepili: hale ʻaina, meaʻai ʻInia, tiffin, lawe ʻia ʻInia, hale ʻaina kingston, hale ʻaina kingston, mākeke kūikawā, hale kūʻai meaʻai ʻInia, meaʻai kolkata, aditigoswami