Mumakore mashoma apfuura, Kingston yakaona kukwira kwemaresitorendi matsva. Kune manoodles chaiwo eramen, poke bowls, madumplings, Turkish takeaway, pizza yakagadzirwa nehuni, madonati, uye, zvechokwadi, chikafu chitsva chekuAmerica. Maresitorendi ekuAsia nezvitoro zvetaco zvakawanda. Asi kune vazhinji, kusanganisira munyori webvudzi reblonde, akaberekerwa kuMumbai uye anogara ikoko, kushomeka kweresitorendi yeIndia - kunyangwe mhando yebindu, chicken tikka, smorgasbord, nezvimwewo - inyaya huru. Asi pakupedzisira, pakupedzisira, chikafu cheIndia (nechikafu chikuru) chave kuwanikwa paBroadway muguta reKingston nekuda kwekuvhurwa kweCalcutta Kitchen munguva pfupi yapfuura.
Aditi Goswami akakurira kunze kweCalcutta kuma70s nema80s ekupedzisira uye kicheni yemhuri yaive nhevedzano yezviitiko kubva pakudya kwemangwanani kusvika pakudya kwemasikati, kubva patii yemasikati kusvika pakudya kwemanheru kukuru kwemhuri. Kunyangwe baba vake vaive murimi aifarira bindu, kicheni yaive yaambuya vake zvikuru. "Handizivi hupenyu pasina kubika. Kana usingabike, haudye," akadaro Goswami nezveIndia nguva isati yasvika yechikafu chinokurumidza usati wadya, apo nzvimbo dzemoto dzaive dzichiri moyo wemba. "Ambuya vangu vaive mubiki akanaka. Baba vangu vaisabika mazuva ese, asi vaive gourmet chaiyo. Vaitenga zvese zvinoshandiswa uye vainyatsoteerera kutsva, mhando uye mwaka. Iye naambuya vangu Ndiye akandidzidzisa chaizvo maonero echikafu, kufunga nezvechikafu." Uye, hongu, maitiro ekubika chikafu.
Achishanda nesimba mukicheni, Goswami akatanga mabasa akadai sekubvisa nyemba kubva pazera remakore mana, uye hunyanzvi hwake nemabasa ake zvakaramba zvichikura kusvika ava nemakore gumi nemaviri ekuberekwa, paakakwanisa kugadzirira chikafu chakakwana. Kufanana nababa vake, akatanga kufarira kurima. "Ndinofarira kurima nekubika chikafu," anodaro Goswami, "chinozoshanduka sei, kuti zvinhu zvinoshanduka sei uye kuti zvinoshandiswa sei zvakasiyana mundiro dzakasiyana."
Mushure mekuroora ava nemakore makumi maviri nemashanu uye kutamira kuUnited States, Goswami akadzidziswa tsika yekuendesa chikafu kuburikidza nebasa rekuAmerica. Zvisinei, achiri kutevedzera tsika yake yekubika kumba kumaruwa eConnecticut, achigadzirira mhuri yake nevaenzi chikafu nenzira yekusaita zvechivanhu yeIndia.
“Ndagara ndichida kunakidzwa nekuti ndinoda kupa vanhu chikafu, kwete kuita mapati makuru uye kungokoka vanhu kuzodya,” akadaro. “Kana kuti kunyange vari pano kuzotamba nevana, kuvapa tii nechimwe chinhu chekudya.” Zvikumbiro zveGoswami zvakaitwa kubva pakutanga. Shamwari nevavakidzani vakafara zvikuru.
Saka, achikurudzirwa nevamwe vake, Goswami akatanga kugadzira nekutengesa mamwe machutney ake pamusika wevarimi vemuConnecticut muna 2009. Mukati memavhiki maviri, akatanga Calcutta Kitchens LLC, kunyange hazvo achiri kutaura kuti haana chinangwa chekutanga bhizinesi. Machutney akatsiviwa nekubika muto, nzira pfupi yekugadzira chikafu cheIndia chechokwadi chine zvinhu zvishoma. Izvi zvese zvinogadziriswa kubva pane zvaanobika kumba, uye mabikirwo acho anowanikwa pasina kurasikirwa nekunaka.
Mumakore gumi nematatu kubva pakatangwa Calcutta Kitchens naGoswami, mhando yechutneys, stews uye spice mixes yaGoswami yakura kusvika yatengeswa munyika yese, kunyangwe nzira yake yekutanga uye yaanofarira yekudyidzana neveruzhinji yagara iri misika yevarimi. Pamusika wake, Goswami akatanga kutengesa chikafu chakagadzirwa pamwe chete nechikafu chake chemumagaba, achinyanya kugadzira chikafu chevegan nevemiriwo. "Handimbofi ndakachipedza - ndinoona kuti chiri kudiwa chaizvo," akadaro. "Chikafu cheIndia chakanakira vanodya miriwo chete nevemiriwo chete, uye kunyangwe chisina gluten, hapana chikonzero chekuedza kuva akasiyana."
Nemakore ese aya eruzivo, pfungwa yekuvaka chitoro yakatanga kukura mupfungwa dzake. Makore matatu apfuura, Goswami akatamira kuHudson Valley uye zvese zvakafamba zvakanaka. "Shamwari dzangu dzese dzevarimi dziri mumusika dzinobva munharaunda ino," akadaro. "Ndinoda kugara kwavanogara. Nharaunda yemuno inokoshesa chikafu ichi."
MuIndia, "tiffin" zvinoreva kudya kwemasikati kwakapfava, kwakafanana netii yemasikati muUK, merienda muSpain, kana chikafu chisina kunaka chakaitwa mushure mechikoro muUS - chikafu chinochinja pakati pekudya kwemasikati nekwemanheru chinogona kutapira. Izwi iri rinoshandiswawo zvakafanana kutsanangura kuti munhu wese kubva kuvana vechikoro kusvika kuvakuru vemakambani muIndia anoshandisa sei midziyo yesimbi isina ngura kuti aise chikafu chavo muzvikamu zvakasiyana zvezvikafu zvakasiyana. (Mumaguta makuru, nzvimbo dzakawanda dzekudyira mumotokari dzechitima nemabhasikoro dzinoendesa chikafu chitsva chinopisa kubva kumakicheni ekumba zvakananga kunzvimbo dzebasa - kuendesa chikafu kuGrub-Hub.)
Goswami haadi kudya kukuru uye haafariri hupenyu uhwu muIndia. "MuIndia, unogona kuenda kunzvimbo idzi kunonwa tii nechikafu chekukurumidza," akadaro. "Kune madonati nekofi, asi handidi nguva dzose kudya zvinotapira, sandwich hombe kana ndiro hombe. Ndinongoda kudya zvishoma, chimwe chinhu chiri pakati."
Zvisinei, haafungi kuti anogona kuzadzisa mukaha uripo mukudya kwekuAmerica. Goswami, uyo aigara zvachose mumisika yevarimi yeChord neKingston, akatanga kutsvaga chikafu chekutengesa. Shamwari yake yakamusuma kumuridzi weimba ye448 Broadway muKingston, kwaimbova neArtisan Bakery. "Pandakaona nzvimbo iyi, zvese zvaitenderera mumusoro mangu zvakabva zvangoerekana zvapinda munzvimbo yazvo," anodaro Goswami - tiffins, mutsara wake, zvinoshandiswa mukudya kweIndia.
"Pandakasarudza kuvhura muKingston, ndaisaziva kuti pakanga pasina resitorendi yeIndia pano," Goswami akadaro achinyemwerera. "Ndaisada kuva piyona. Ndakangogara pano uye ndinoda Kingston saka ndaifunga kuti zvaizova zvakanaka. Zvainzwa sekunge zviri kuitwa panguva chaiyo uye panzvimbo chaiyo."
Kubva paakavhurwa musi wa4 Chivabvu, Goswami anga achipa chikafu cheIndia chaakagadzirwa kumba mazuva mashanu pasvondo kuchitoro chake pa448 Broadway. Vatatu vavo vaive vemiriwo uye vaviri vaive nyama. Asina menyu, anobika chero chaanoda zvichienderana nemamiriro ekunze uye zvinoshandiswa mumwaka. "Zvakafanana nekicheni yaamai vako," akadaro Goswami. "Unopinda mukati wobvunza kuti, 'Chii chekudya kwemanheru manheru ano? Ini ndinoti, "Ndakabika izvi," wobva wadya. "Mukicheni yakashama, unogona kuona Goswami iri kubasa, uye zvakafanana nekukwevera chigaro patafura yekudyira yemumwe munhu ivo vachiramba vachicheka-cheka nekukurunga nekutaura pamusoro pemafudzi avo.
Zvigadzirwa zvezuva nezuva zvinoburitswa kuburikidza ne Instagram Stories. Zvokudya zvitsva zvinosanganisira huku biryani nekoshimbier, saradhi inotonhora yeSouth Indian, googni, dry pea Bengali curry inopihwa ne tamarind chutney ne sweet buns. "Zvikafu zvakawanda zveIndia zvine mhando ye stew," akadaro Goswami. "Ndosaka zvichinaka zviri nani mangwana acho." paratha Frozen flatbreads seizvi. Kunewo tii inopisa ne cold lemonade kuti zvinakidze.
Magaba emasoso nechutneys zvinobikwa kubva mukubika kweKolkata akazara nemadziro enzvimbo inopenya uye ine mhepo, pamwe chete nemabikirwo akanyatsorongwa. Goswami inotengesawo zvekudya zveIndia, kubva pamiriwo yakakangwa kusvika kumupunga webasmati unowanikwa kwose kwose, mhando dzakasiyana dzedal (lentils) uye zvimwe zvinonhuhwirira zvakaoma kuwana asi zvakakosha zvakaita sehing (asafetida). Mukati menzira yekufamba netsoka mune matafura ebistro, zvigaro zvemaoko uye tafura refu yekudya pamwe chete uko Goswami anotarisira kuti rimwe zuva ave nekirasi yekubika yeIndia.
Gore rino zvirinani, Goswami acharamba achishanda kuKingston Farmers' Market, pamwe chete nemisika yemwedzi wega wega kuLarchmont, Phoenicia nePark Slope. "Zvandinoziva uye zvandinoita hazvingafanane pasina hushamwari hwandinogara ndiinahwo nevatengi, uye mhinduro dzavo dzinochinja zvandinoita uye ruzivo rwandinopa," akadaro. "Ndinotenda zvikuru neruzivo rwandakawana kubva kumusika wevarimi uye ndinonzwa sekunge ndinofanira kuramba ndichibatana."
Labels: resitorendi, chikafu cheIndia, tiffin, chikafu cheIndia chinotengwa, resitorendi yeKingston, resitorendi yeKingston, musika wehunyanzvi, chitoro chezvitoro cheIndia, chikafu cheKolkata, aditigoswami