Kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo, iKingston ibone ukwanda okukhulu kwiindawo zokutyela ezintsha. Kukho iinoodles ze-ramen zokwenyani, izitya ze-poke, ii-dumplings, ukutya okutyayo kwaseTurkey, ipizza ephekiweyo ngomthi, ii-donuts, kwaye, ewe, ukutya okutsha kwaseMelika. Iindawo zokutyela zase-Asia kunye neevenkile ze-taco zininzi. Kodwa kwabaninzi, kuquka umbhali nomhlali omhlophe, ozelwe eMumbai ngendlela engaqondakaliyo, ukungabikho kwendawo yokutyela yaseIndiya - nokuba yintlobo yegadi, i-chicken tikka, i-smorgasbord, nezinye izinto ezinjalo - yinto enkulu. Kodwa ekugqibeleni, ekugqibeleni, ukutya kwaseIndiya (kunye nokutya okuqhelekileyo) ekugqibeleni kukwiBroadway embindini wedolophu yaseKingston ngenxa yokuvulwa kweCalcutta Kitchen kutshanje.
UAditi Goswami wakhulela ngaphandle kweCalcutta ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-70 noo-80 kwaye ikhitshi losapho laliluthotho lweziganeko ukusuka kwisidlo sakusasa ukuya kwisidlo sangokuhlwa sasemini, ukusuka kwiti yasemva kwemini ukuya kwizidlo zangokuhlwa ezinkulu zosapho. Nangona uyise wayengumlimi okhutheleyo, ikhitshi yayiphethwe kakhulu ngumakhulu wakhe. “Andiyazi ubomi ngaphandle kokupheka. Ukuba awupheki, awutyi,” utshilo uGoswami ngeIndiya ngaphambi kwexesha lokutya okukhawulezayo ngaphambi kokuba kuthathwe ukutya, xa iindawo zomlilo zazisesezintliziyweni zekhaya. “Umakhulu wayengumpheki olungileyo. Utata wayengapheki yonke imihla, kodwa wayengumntu othanda ukutya kakhulu. Wayethenga zonke izithako kwaye wayenika ingqalelo enkulu ekutsha, umgangatho kunye nexesha lonyaka. Yena nomakhulu wam Lowo wandifundisa ngokwenene indlela yokujonga ukutya, indlela yokucinga ngokutya.” Kwaye, ewe, indlela yokupheka ukutya.
Esebenza ngokuzimisela ekhitshini, uGoswami wathatha imisebenzi efana nokuxobula iimbotyi ukususela kwiminyaka emine ubudala, kwaye izakhono zakhe kunye noxanduva lwakhe zaqhubeka zikhula de waneminyaka eli-12 ubudala, xa wakwazi ukulungiselela isidlo esipheleleyo. Njengoyise, waba nomdla wokulima igadi. “Ndinomdla wokukhulisa nokupheka ukutya,” utshilo uGoswami, “ukuba yintoni na, indlela izithako eziguquka ngayo kunye nendlela ezisetyenziswa ngayo ngokwahlukileyo kwizitya ezahlukeneyo.”
Emva kokutshata eneminyaka engama-25 waza wafudukela eMelika, uGoswami waziswa kwinkcubeko yokuhambisa ukutya kwindawo yokusebenza yaseMelika. Nangona kunjalo, usabambelele kwisithethe sakhe sokupheka ekhaya emaphandleni aseConnecticut, elungiselela usapho lwakhe kunye neendwendwe ukutya ngendlela eqhelekileyo, yendabuko yaseIndiya yokwamkela iindwendwe.
“Ndisoloko ndithanda ukonwaba kuba ndithanda ukupha abantu ukutya, kungekhona ukwenza amatheko amakhulu nokumema abantu kwisidlo sangokuhlwa,” utshilo. “Okanye nokuba balapha ukuze badlale nabantwana, babanike iti nento yokutya.” Iziphakamiso zikaGoswami zenziwe kwasekuqaleni. Abahlobo nabamelwane babevuya kakhulu.
Ngoko ke, ekhuthazwe ngoontanga bakhe, uGoswami waqala ukwenza nokuthengisa ezinye zeechutney zakhe kwimarike yabalimi basekuhlaleni eConnecticut ngo-2009. Kwiiveki ezimbini, waseka iCalcutta Kitchens LLC, nangona esathi akananjongo yokuqalisa ishishini. Iichutney zithathelwe indawo yisosi ezibilayo, indlela emfutshane yokwenza ukutya kwaseIndiya okuyinyani ngezithako ezimbalwa. Zonke ezi ziindlela zokulungisa ukutya akuphekayo ekhaya, kwaye iiresiphi ziyafumaneka ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa yincasa.
Kwiminyaka eli-13 ukusukela oko uGoswami waqalisa iCalcutta Kitchens, uluhlu lukaGoswami lweechutney, izityu kunye nemixube yeziqholo luye lwanda lwaza lwathengiswa kulo lonke ilizwe, nangona uhlobo lwakhe lokuqala noluthandwayo lonxibelelwano loluntu belusoloko luyimarike yabalimi. Kwivenkile yakhe yemarike, uGoswami waqala ukuthengisa ukutya okulungisiweyo kunye nokutya kwakhe okusemathinini, egxile ekutyeni kwe-vegan kunye ne-vegetarian. “Andinakuze ndikugqibe — ndibona isidingo sokwenene sako,” utshilo. “Ukutya kwaseIndiya kulungile kubantu abatya imifuno kunye nabantu abatya i-vegan, kwaye nokuba akukho gluten, akukho mfuneko yokuzama ukwahluka.”
Ngalo lonke eli xesha lamava, ingcamango yokwakha ivenkile yaqala ukukhula engqondweni yakhe. Kwiminyaka emithathu eyadlulayo, uGoswami wafudukela eHudson Valley kwaye yonke into yahamba kakuhle. “Bonke abahlobo bam abangamafama kwimarike bavela kulo mmandla,” utshilo. “Ndifuna ukuhlala apho bahlala khona. Uluntu lwasekuhlaleni lukuxabisa kakhulu oku kutya.”
EIndiya, igama elithi “tiffin” libhekisa kwisidlo sasemini esilula, esifana neti yasemini e-UK, i-merienda eSpain, okanye isidlo sasemva kwesikolo esingathandekiyo e-US – isidlo esitshintshayo phakathi kwesidlo sasemini nesangokuhlwa esinokuba mnandi. Eli gama likwasetyenziswa ngokutshintshana ukuchaza indlela wonke umntu ukusuka kubantwana besikolo ukuya kubaphathi beenkampani eIndiya abasebenzisa ngayo izikhongozeli zentsimbi engagqwaliyo ukupakisha ukutya kwabo ngamacandelo ahlukeneyo ezitya ezahlukeneyo. (Kwizixeko ezinkulu, uthotho olubanzi lweendawo zokutyela kwiimoto zikaloliwe kunye neebhayisekile zihambisa ukutya okushushu okutsha ukusuka kwiikhitshi zasekhaya ukuya ngqo kwiindawo zokusebenza – ukuhanjiswa kokutya kwe-OG eGrub-Hub.)
UGoswami akathandi ukutya okukhulu kwaye uyalikhumbula eli candelo lobomi eIndiya. “EIndiya, ungaya kwezi ndawo ukuze uyokusela iti nokutya okukhawulezayo,” utshilo. “Kukho iidonathi nekofu, kodwa andisoloko ndifuna into emnandi, isandwich enkulu okanye isitya esikhulu. Ndifuna nje ukutya okuncinci, into ephakathi.”
Nangona kunjalo, akacingi ukuba angazalisa isithuba ekutyeni kwaseMelika. UGoswami, owayehlala ngokusisigxina kwiimarike zabalimi zaseChord naseKingston, waqala ukukhangela ukutya okuthengiswayo. Umhlobo wakhe wamzisa kumninindlu wase448 Broadway eKingston, apho kwakukho iArtisan Bakery. “Ndathi ndakubona le ndawo, yonke into eyayijikeleza entlokweni yam yajika yangena endaweni yayo,” utshilo uGoswami – ii-tiffins, umgca wakhe, izithako zokutya zaseIndiya.
“Xa ndagqiba ekubeni ndivule eKingston, bendingazi ukuba akukho ndawo yokutyela yamaNdiya apha,” utshilo uGoswami encumile. “Bendingafuni ukuba nguvulindlela. Bendihlala apha kwaye ndiyayithanda iKingston ngoko ke ndicinga ukuba kuya kuba kuhle. Kwavakala ngathi kwenziwa ngexesha elifanelekileyo nasendaweni elungileyo.
Ukusukela oko wavula nge-4 kaMeyi, uGoswami ebephakela ukutya kwaseIndiya okwenziwe ekhaya iintsuku ezintlanu ngeveki kwivenkile yakhe e-448 Broadway. Ezintathu kuzo zazingezokutya imifuno kwaye ezimbini zaziyinyama. Ngaphandle kwemenyu, upheka nantoni na ayifunayo ngokusekwe kwimozulu kunye nezithako zonyaka. “Kufana nekhitshi likamama wakho,” utshilo uGoswami. “Ungena ubuze, 'Kuza kutyiwa ntoni ngokuhlwanje? Ndithi, “Ndipheke oku,” uze utye. “Kwikhitshi elivulekileyo, ungabona ooGoswami besemsebenzini, kwaye kufana nokutsala isitulo uye etafileni yokutyela yomntu ngelixa beqhubeka nokusika, bevuselela kwaye bencokola phezu kwamahlombe abo.
Iimveliso zemihla ngemihla zipapashwa nge-Instagram Stories. Izidlo zakutshanje ziquka i-chicken biryani kunye ne-koshimbier, isaladi eqhelekileyo ebandayo yaseMzantsi India, i-googni, i-dry pea Bengali curry ekhonzwa ne-tamarind chutney kunye neebhanisi ezimnandi. “Uninzi lwezitya zaseIndiya luhlobo oluthile lwesityu,” utshilo uGoswami. “Yiyo loo nto inencasa engcono ngosuku olulandelayo.” I-paratha Iiflatbreads eziqandisiweyo zinje. Kukwakho neti eshushu kunye ne-cold lemonade yokwenza kube mnandi.
Iimbiza zeesosi kunye neechutney ezibilayo ezivela ekutyeni kwaseKolkata zigcwele iindonga zendawo ekhanyayo neyomoya, kunye neeresiphi ezikhethwe ngononophelo. IGoswami ikwathengisa ukutya okuqhelekileyo kwaseIndiya, ukusuka kwimifuno ecoliweyo ukuya kwirayisi yebasmati exhaphakileyo, iintlobo ngeentlobo zedal (iilentile) kunye nezinye iziqholo ezifumaneka nzima kodwa ezibalulekileyo ezifana nehing (asafetida). Ngaphakathi kwendlela kukho iitafile zebistro, izitulo zengalo kunye netafile ende apho uGoswami enethemba lokuba ngenye imini uza kuba neklasi yokupheka yaseNdiya.
Ubuncinane kulo nyaka, uGoswami uza kuqhubeka esebenza kwiKingston Farmers' Market, kunye neemarike zenyanga eLarchmont, ePhoenicia nasePark Slope. “Endikwaziyo nendikwenzayo bekungayi kufana ngaphandle kobuhlobo obuhlala buhleli endinabo nabathengi, kwaye impendulo yabo ichaphazela oko ndikwenzayo kunye namava endiwanikezelayo,” utshilo. “Ndiyabulela kakhulu ngolwazi endilufumene kwimarike yabalimi kwaye ndivakalelwa kukuba kufuneka ndiqhubeke nolo nxibelelwano.”
Iilebheli: indawo yokutyela, ukutya kwaseIndiya, iTiffin, ukutya okuthathwe eIndiya, indawo yokutyela yaseKingston, indawo yokutyela yaseKingston, imakethi ekhethekileyo, ivenkile yokutya yaseIndiya, ukutya kwaseKolkata, iAdigoswami