Kule minyaka imbalwa idlulileyo, iKingston ibone i-boom kwiindawo zokutyela ezintsha.Kukho ii-ramen noodles zokwenyani, izitya zepoke, amadombolo, i-Turkish takeaway, ipizza eyenziwe ngamaplanga, iidonathi, kwaye, ewe, ukutya okutsha kwaseMelika.Iindawo zokutyela zaseAsia kunye neevenkile zetaco zininzi.Kodwa kwabaninzi, kubandakanywa ne-blond, umbhali kunye nomhlali owazalelwa eMumbai ngokungaqondakaliyo, ukungabikho kwendawo yokutyela yaseNdiya - kunye neentlobo zegadi, i-chicken tikka, i-smorgasbord, kunye nokunye okunjalo - yinto enkulu.Kodwa ekugqibeleni, ukutya kwamaIndiya (kunye nokutya okusisiseko) ekugqibeleni kukwiBroadway edolophini yaseKingston ngenxa yokuvulwa kweCalcutta Kitchen.
U-Aditi Goswami wakhulela ngaphandle kweCalcutta ekupheleni kweminyaka engama-70 kunye ne-80 kwaye ikhitshi yentsapho yayiyiziganeko ezininzi ukusuka kwisidlo sakusasa ukuya kwisidlo sasemini, ukusuka kwiti yemini ukuya kwisidlo esikhulu sentsapho.Nangona uyise wayengumlimi okhutheleyo, ikhitshi ubukhulu becala yayilelikamakhulu wakhe.“Andibazi ubomi ngaphandle kokupheka.Ukuba awupheki, awutyi, ”utshilo uGoswami ngeIndiya ngaphambi kwexesha lokutya okukhawulezayo ngaphambi kokuphuma, xa iindawo zokubasa zazisembindini wekhaya.“Umakhulu wam wayengumpheki ophum’ izandla.Utata wayengapheki yonke imihla, kodwa wayengumntu othanda ukutya.Wathenga zonke izithako kwaye wanikela ingqalelo enkulu kubutsha, umgangatho kunye nexesha lonyaka.Yena nomakhulu wam Oyena wandifundisa ngokwenene ukujonga ukutya, indlela yokucinga ngokutya.”Kwaye, ngokuqinisekileyo, indlela yokupheka ukutya.
Esebenza ngenkuthalo ekhitshini, uGoswami wenza imisebenzi enjengokuchuba iiertyisi ukususela kwiminyaka emine ubudala, yaye ubuchule bakhe neembopheleleko zakhe zaqhubeka zikhula de waba neminyaka eli-12 ubudala, xa wayekwazi ukulungiselela isidlo esipheleleyo.Njengoyise, waba nomdla wokulima.“Ndinomdla ekukhuliseni nasekuphekeni ukutya,” utsho uGoswami, “kuba yintoni eyenzekayo, ziguquka njani izithako kunye nendlela ezisetyenziswa ngayo ngokwahlukileyo kwizitya ezahlukeneyo.”
Emva kokutshata kwi-25 kunye nokufudukela e-United States, uGoswami waziswa kwinkcubeko yokuhambisa ukutya kwindawo yokusebenzela yaseMelika.Nangona kunjalo, uhlala enyanisekile kwisiko lakhe lokupheka kwikhaya elisemaphandleni eConnecticut, elungiselela ukutya kosapho lwakhe kunye neendwendwe ngendlela eqhelekileyo, isimbo saseIndiya sokubuk' iindwendwe.
“Kudala ndikuthanda ukonwaba kuba ndithanda ukondla abantu, hayi ukwenza amatheko amakhulu kwaye ndimema abantu ukuba beze kwisidlo sangokuhlwa,” utshilo.Okanye nokuba beze kudlala nabantwana, banike iti nento etyiwayo.Izindululo zeGoswami zenziwe ukusuka ekuqaleni.Abahlobo nabamelwane bavuya kakhulu.
Ngoko, ekhuthazwa ngoontanga bakhe, uGoswami waqala ukwenza kunye nokuthengisa ezinye ze-chutneys kwimarike yabalimi baseConnecticut kwi-2009. Kwiiveki ezimbini, wasungula iCalcutta Kitchens LLC, nangona esitsho ukuba akananjongo yokuqalisa ishishini.I-Chutneys inike indlela yokubilisa iisosi, indlela emfutshane yokwenza ukutya okuyinyani kwamaNdiya okunezithako ezimbalwa.Zonke ezi zilungelelaniso zezinto aziphekayo ekhaya, kwaye iiresiphi ziyafumaneka ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa yincasa.
Kwiminyaka eli-13 ukusukela oko uGoswami wasungula iCalcutta Kitchens, umgca weGoswami weechutneys, isityu kunye nemixube yeziqholo ukhule wathengiswa kwilizwe liphela, nangona uhlobo lwakhe lokuqala noluthandayo lobudlelwane noluntu belusoloko luziimarike zamafama.Kwindawo yakhe yokuthengisa, uGoswami waqala ukuthengisa ukutya okulungisiweyo kunye nokutya kwakhe okunkonkxiweyo, esebenza ngokukhethekileyo kwi-vegan kunye nokutya kwemifuno.“Andinakuze ndiyigqibe- ndibona imfuneko yokwenyani,” utshilo."Ukutya kwamaNdiya kulungile kubantu abatya imifuno kunye nezilwanyana, kunye ne-gluten-free, akukho mfuneko yokuzama ukwahluka."
Ngayo yonke le minyaka yamava, umbono wokwakha ivenkile engaphambili waqala ukuvuthwa ngasemva kwengqondo yakhe.Kwiminyaka emithathu edlulileyo, uGoswami wafudukela kwi-Hudson Valley kwaye yonke into yawela endaweni.“Bonke abahlobo bam abangabalimi emarikeni baphuma kulo mmandla,” utshilo.“Ndifuna ukuhlala apho bahlala khona.Abantu basekuhlaleni bakuxabisa ngokwenene oku kutya.”
E-Indiya, “i-tiffin” ibhekisa kwisidlo sasemva kwemini esilula, esilingana neti yasemva kwemini e-UK, i-merienda e-Spain, okanye i-snack egqitywe ncinane kakhulu yasemva kokuphuma kwesikolo e-US-isidlo sexeshana phakathi kwesidlo sasemini kunye nesidlo sangokuhlwa esinokuba mnandi.Eli gama likwasetyenziswa ngokutshintshanayo ukuchaza indlela wonke umntu ukusuka kubantwana besikolo ukuya kubaphathi beenkampani eIndiya asebenzisa izikhongozeli ezipakishwe ngentsimbi engatyiwayo ukupakisha izidlo zabo ngamagumbi ahlukeneyo ezitya ezahlukeneyo.(Kwi-megacities, uluhlu olubanzi lweendawo zokutyela kwiimoto zikaloliwe kunye neebhayisekile zihambisa ukutya okushushu okutsha ukusuka ekhitshini lasekhaya ukuya ngqo kwiindawo zokusebenza-ukuhanjiswa kokutya kwe-OG kwi-Grub-Hub.)
UGoswami akakuthandi ukutya okukhulu kwaye uyaphoswa yile nkalo yobomi baseIndiya.“E-India, ungasoloko usiya kwezi ndawo ukufumana iti nokutya okukhawulezayo,” utshilo.“Kukho iidonathi kunye nekofu, kodwa andisoloko ndifuna izinyo eliswiti, isangweji enkulu okanye ipleyiti enkulu.Ndifuna nje i-snack encinci, into ephakathi."
Nangona kunjalo, akacingi ukuba unokugcwalisa isithuba kwi-American cuisine.UGoswami, owayehlala ngokusisigxina kwiimarike zamafama eChord naseKingston, waqala ukukhangela ukutya kwezorhwebo.Umhlobo wakhe wamazisa kumnini-mhlaba wakwa-448 Broadway e-Kingston, apho yayifudula ikhoyo iArtisan Bakery.“Xa ndibona esi sithuba, yonke into eyayijikeleza entlokweni yam yakhawuleza yangena endaweni yayo,” utsho uGoswami – tiffins, umgca wakhe, izithako zokutya zaseIndiya.
“Xa ndandithatha isigqibo sokuvula eKingston, ndandingazi ukuba akukho ndawo yokutyela yamaNdiya apha,” watsho encumile uGoswami.“Ndandingafuni ukuba nguvulindlela.Ndihlala apha kwaye ndiyamthanda uKingston ngoko bendicinga ukuba kuya kuba kuhle.Kwavakala ngathi yenziwe ngexesha elifanelekileyo kwaye kwindawo eyiyo.
Ukusukela oko yavulwa nge-4 kaMeyi, uGoswami ebehambisa ukutya kwaseIndiya kwasekhaya iintsuku ezintlanu ngeveki kwivenkile yakhe e-448 Broadway.Abathathu kubo ibiyinyama kwaye ezimbini beziyinyama.Ngaphandle kwemenyu, upheka nantoni na ayifunayo ngokusekelwe kwimozulu kunye nezithako zonyaka.“Ifana nekhitshi likanyoko,” watsho uGoswami.“Uyangena kwaye ubuze, 'Yintoni isidlo sangokuhlwa namhlanje?Ndithi, “Ndikuphekile oku,” uze utye.“Kwikhitshi elivulekileyo, unokubona iGoswami emsebenzini, kwaye kufana nokutsalela isitulo kwitafile yokutyela yomntu ngelixa beqhubeka nokunqunqa, beshukumisa kwaye bencokola emagxeni abo.
Iimveliso zemihla ngemihla zipapashwa ngamabali e-Instagram.I-appetizers yakutsha nje ibandakanya i-biryani yenkukhu kunye ne-koshimbier, isaladi ebandayo yaseIndiya yaseMzantsi, i-googni, i-pea eyomileyo ye-Bengali curry esetyenziswa kunye ne-tamarind chutney kunye neebhanti ezimnandi.“Izitya ezininzi zaseIndiya luhlobo lwesityu,” utshilo uGoswami.Yiyo loo nto incasa ngcono kusuku olulandelayo.paratha Frozen izonka ezicaba ngolu hlobo.Kukwakho neti eshushu kunye nelemonade ebandayo yokwenza iswiti isivumelwano.
Iingqayi zeesosi ezixubileyo kunye ne-chutneys ezivela kwi-cuisine yase-Kolkata zihamba ngeendonga zendawo yekona eqaqambileyo kunye ne-airy, kunye neendlela zokupheka ezigcinwe ngononophelo.IGoswami ikwathengisa izidlo zaseIndiya, ukusuka kwimifuno ethathiweyo ukuya kwirayisi ye-basmati efumanekayo yonke indawo, iintlobo ngeentlobo zedali (iilentile) kunye nezinye izinongo ekunzima ukuzifumana kodwa ezibalulekileyo njengehing (asafetida).Ecaleni nangaphakathi kwendlela kukho iitafile zebistro, izitulo zengalo kunye netafile ende yoluntu apho uGoswami enethemba lokuba ngenye imini abe neklasi yokupheka yaseIndiya.
Kulo nyaka ubuncinci, iGoswami iya kuqhubeka isebenza kwiMarike yamaFama eKingston, kunye neemarike zenyanga eLarchmont, eFenike nasePark Slope.“Endikwaziyo nendikwenzayo bekungayi kufana ngaphandle kobuhlobo obuthe rhoqo endinabo nabathengi, kwaye impendulo yabo ichaphazela into endiyenzayo kunye namava endiwanikezayo,” utshilo.“Ndinombulelo kakhulu ngolwazi endilufumene kwimarike yamafama kwaye ndiziva ngathi kufuneka ndiqhubeke nonxibelelwano.”
Iileyibhile: indawo yokutyela, ukutya kwamandiya, itiffin, indawo yokutyela yamandiya, irestyu yasekingston, irestyu yasekingston, imarike ekhethekileyo, ivenkile yegrosari yamandiya, ukutya kolkata, aditigoswami