M'zaka zingapo zapitazi, Kingston yawona kutchuka kwa malo odyera atsopano. Pali zakudya za ramen, mbale zophikidwa, ma dumplings, zakudya zotengera ku Turkey, pizza yophikidwa ndi nkhuni, ma donuts, komanso, chakudya chatsopano cha ku America. Malo odyera aku Asia ndi masitolo ogulitsa taco ndi ambiri. Koma kwa ambiri, kuphatikizapo wolemba komanso wokhala ku Mumbai yemwe ndi wachikasu, kusowa kwa malo odyera aku India - ngakhale mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya m'munda, chicken tikka, smorgasbord, ndi zina zotero - ndi nkhani yaikulu. Koma pamapeto pake, chakudya cha ku India (ndi chakudya chofunikira) chafika pa Broadway mumzinda wa Kingston chifukwa cha kutsegulidwa kwaposachedwa kwa Calcutta Kitchen.
Aditi Goswami anakulira kunja kwa mzinda wa Calcutta kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 70 ndi 80 ndipo khitchini ya banja inali yodzaza ndi zochitika kuyambira chakudya cham'mawa mpaka chakudya chamadzulo cha masana, kuyambira tiyi wa masana mpaka chakudya chamadzulo chachikulu cha banja. Ngakhale abambo ake anali mlimi wokonda dimba, khitchini inali ya agogo ake aakazi ambiri. "Sindikudziwa moyo wopanda kuphika. Ngati simuphika, simudya," Goswami adatero za India isanafike nthawi ya chakudya chofulumira musanatenge, pomwe malo ophikira moto analibe maziko a nyumba. "Agogo anga aakazi anali ophika bwino. Abambo anga sankaphika tsiku lililonse, koma anali wokonda kwambiri zakudya. Ankagula zosakaniza zonse ndipo ankasamala kwambiri za kutsitsimuka, khalidwe labwino komanso nyengo. Iye ndi agogo anga aakazi. Amene anandiphunzitsadi momwe ndingayang'anire chakudya, momwe ndingaganizire za chakudya." Ndipo, ndithudi, momwe ndingaphikire chakudya.
Pogwira ntchito mwakhama kukhitchini, Goswami anayamba kugwira ntchito monga kusenda nandolo kuyambira ali ndi zaka zinayi, ndipo luso lake ndi maudindo ake zinapitirira kukula mpaka atakwanitsa zaka 12, pamene anatha kuphika chakudya chokwanira. Monga abambo ake, iye anayamba kukonda ulimi. "Ndimakonda kulima ndi kuphika chakudya," akutero Goswami, "zomwe zimakhala chiyani, momwe zosakaniza zimasinthira komanso momwe zimagwiritsidwira ntchito mosiyana m'mbale zosiyanasiyana."
Atakwatiwa ali ndi zaka 25 ndikusamukira ku United States, Goswami adaphunzira chikhalidwe chotumizira chakudya kuchokera kuntchito yaku America. Komabe, akutsatirabe mwambo wake wophikira kunyumba kumidzi yaku Connecticut, akukonzera chakudya banja lake ndi alendo mwanjira yosazolowereka komanso yachikhalidwe yaku India.
“Nthawi zonse ndimakonda kusangalala chifukwa ndimakonda kudyetsa anthu, osati kupanga maphwando akuluakulu komanso kungoitana anthu kuti adzadye chakudya chamadzulo,” iye anatero. “Kapena ngakhale atakhala pano kudzasewera ndi ana, kuwapatsa tiyi ndi chakudya.” Malangizo a a Goswami apangidwa kuyambira pachiyambi. Anzake ndi anansi anasangalala kwambiri.
Choncho, atalimbikitsidwa ndi anzake, Goswami anayamba kupanga ndikugulitsa ma chutney ake ena pamsika wa alimi ku Connecticut mu 2009. Pasanathe milungu iwiri, adakhazikitsa Calcutta Kitchens LLC, ngakhale kuti akunenabe kuti alibe cholinga choyambitsa bizinesi. Ma chutney apereka m'malo mwa sosi zokazinga, njira yachidule yopangira chakudya chenicheni cha ku India chopanda zosakaniza zambiri. Zonsezi ndi njira yosinthira zomwe amaphika kunyumba, ndipo maphikidwe amapezeka popanda kutaya kukoma.
M'zaka 13 kuchokera pamene Goswami adayambitsa Calcutta Kitchens, malonda a chutney, stews ndi zonunkhira ku Goswami awonjezeka kwambiri m'dziko lonselo, ngakhale kuti njira yake yoyamba komanso yomwe amakonda kwambiri yolankhulirana ndi anthu nthawi zonse yakhala misika ya alimi. Pamsika wake, Goswami anayamba kugulitsa zakudya zokonzedwa pamodzi ndi chakudya chake cha m'zitini, makamaka chakudya cha vegan ndi cha masamba. "Sindingathe kuchimaliza - ndikuona kuti ndichofunika kwambiri," adatero. "Chakudya cha ku India ndi chabwino kwa anthu osadya nyama ndi osadya nyama, komanso ngakhale opanda gluten, palibe chifukwa choyesera kukhala osiyana."
Ndi zaka zonsezi, lingaliro lomanga sitolo linayamba kukhwima m'maganizo mwake. Zaka zitatu zapitazo, Goswami anasamukira ku Hudson Valley ndipo zonse zinayenda bwino. "Anzanga onse alimi pamsika ndi ochokera kudera lino," adatero. "Ndikufuna kukhala komwe amakhala. Anthu ammudzi amayamikira kwambiri chakudya ichi."
Ku India, "tiffin" amatanthauza chakudya chopepuka cha masana, chofanana ndi tiyi wa masana ku UK, merienda ku Spain, kapena chakudya chokoma kwambiri chochokera kusukulu ku US - chakudya chosinthira pakati pa nkhomaliro ndi chakudya chamadzulo chomwe chingakhale chokoma. Mawuwa amagwiritsidwanso ntchito mosiyana pofotokoza momwe aliyense kuyambira ana asukulu mpaka akuluakulu amakampani ku India amagwiritsira ntchito ziwiya zosapanga dzimbiri zodzaza ndi zitsulo zosapanga dzimbiri kuti azinyamula chakudya chawo ndi magawo osiyanasiyana a mbale zosiyanasiyana. (M'mizinda ikuluikulu, malo odyera ambiri m'magalimoto a sitima ndi njinga amapereka chakudya chotentha kuchokera kukhitchini zapakhomo kupita kumalo antchito - chakudya cha OG chimapereka ku Grub-Hub.)
Goswami sakonda chakudya chachikulu ndipo sakonda mbali imeneyi ya moyo ku India. "Ku India, nthawi zonse mumatha kupita kumalo amenewa kukadya tiyi ndi chakudya chofulumira," adatero. "Kuli ma donuts ndi khofi, koma nthawi zonse sindimafuna chakudya chokoma, sangweji yayikulu kapena mbale yayikulu. Ndikungofuna chakudya chokoma pang'ono, china chake pakati."
Komabe, sakuganiza kuti angathe kudzaza kusiyana kwa zakudya zaku America. Goswami, yemwe ankakhala kosatha m'misika ya alimi ya Chord ndi Kingston, anayamba kufunafuna zakudya zamalonda. Bwenzi lake linamuwonetsa kwa mwini nyumba wa 448 Broadway ku Kingston, komwe kale kunali Artisan Bakery. "Nditaona malowa, chilichonse chomwe chinali kuzungulira m'mutu mwanga chinalowa m'malo mwake," akutero Goswami - tiffins, mzere wake, zosakaniza za chakudya cha ku India.
“Pamene ndinaganiza zotsegula ku Kingston, sindinadziwe kuti kulibe lesitilanti yachi India kuno,” anatero Goswami akumwetulira. “Sindinkafuna kukhala mpainiya. Ndinangokhala kuno ndipo ndimakonda Kingston kotero ndimaganiza kuti zingakhale bwino. Zinali ngati kuti zikuchitika panthawi yoyenera komanso pamalo oyenera.”
Kuyambira pomwe adatsegula pa 4 Meyi, Goswami wakhala akutumikira chakudya cha ku India chopangidwa kunyumba masiku asanu pa sabata ku shopu yake ku 448 Broadway. Atatu mwa iwo anali osadya nyama ndipo awiri anali nyama. Popanda menyu, amaphika chilichonse chomwe akufuna kutengera nyengo ndi zosakaniza za nyengo. "Zili ngati khitchini ya amayi ako," adatero Goswami. "Mukalowa ndikufunsa kuti, 'Chakudya chamadzulo ndi chiyani usikuuno? Ine ndimati, "Ndaphika izi," kenako mumadya. "Mu khitchini yotseguka, mutha kuwona a Goswami akugwira ntchito, ndipo zili ngati kukoka mpando patebulo lodyera la munthu wina pamene akupitiriza kuduladula, kusakaniza ndi kucheza mozungulira mapewa awo.
Zakudya za tsiku ndi tsiku zimafalitsidwa kudzera mu Nkhani za Instagram. Zakudya zaposachedwapa zokhwasula-khwasula zikuphatikizapo nkhuku biryani ndi koshimbier, saladi yozizira ya ku South India, googni, nyemba zouma za Bengali curry zomwe zimaperekedwa ndi chutney ya tamarind ndi ma buns otsekemera. "Zakudya zambiri zaku India ndi zamtundu wina wa stew," adatero Goswami. "Ndichifukwa chake zimakoma bwino tsiku lotsatira." paratha Ma buledi ozizira ngati awa. Palinso tiyi wotentha ndi mandimu ozizira kuti awonjezere kukoma.
Mitsuko ya sosi ndi ma chutney ophika kuchokera ku zakudya za ku Kolkata imadzaza makoma a malo owala komanso opumira mpweya, pamodzi ndi maphikidwe okonzedwa bwino. Goswami imagulitsanso zakudya zachikhalidwe zaku India, kuyambira ndiwo zamasamba zokazinga mpaka mpunga wa basmati womwe umapezeka paliponse, mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya dal (lentils) ndi zonunkhira zina zofunika koma zovuta kupeza monga hing (asafetida). M'mbali ndi mkati mwa msewu muli matebulo a bistro, mipando yamanja ndi tebulo lalitali la anthu onse komwe Goswami akuyembekeza tsiku lina kukhala ndi kalasi yophikira yaku India.
Chaka chino osachepera, Goswami apitiliza kugwira ntchito ku Kingston Farmers' Market, komanso misika ya mwezi uliwonse ku Larchmont, Phoenicia ndi Park Slope. "Zomwe ndikudziwa ndi kuchita sizingakhale chimodzimodzi popanda ubwenzi wokhazikika womwe ndimakhala nawo ndi makasitomala, ndipo mayankho awo amakhudza zomwe ndimachita komanso zomwe ndimapereka," adatero. "Ndikuyamikira kwambiri chidziwitso chomwe ndapeza kuchokera ku msika wa alimi ndipo ndikumva kuti ndikufunika kupitiliza kulumikizana kumeneko."
Zolemba: malo odyera, chakudya cha ku India, tiffin, chakudya chotengera ku India, malo odyera a kingston, malo odyera a kingston, msika wapadera, sitolo yogulitsira zakudya ku India, zakudya za ku Kolkata, aditigoswami