I ngā tau kua taha ake nei, kua kite a Kingston i te puāwaitanga o ngā wharekai hou. Kei reira ngā nūru ramen tūturu, ngā peihana poke, ngā tāmi, ngā kai Turkish tango kai, te pīta tahu rakau, ngā tōnati, me te kai Amerikana hou. He maha ngā wharekai Āhia me ngā toa taco. Engari mō te tini, tae atu ki te kaituhi me te kainoho o Mumbai, he mea nui te korenga o tētahi wharekai Īnia - tae atu ki tētahi momo māra, heihei tikka, smorgasbord, me ērā atu mea. Engari i te mutunga, i te mutunga, kua tae mai te kai Īnia (me te kai matua) ki Broadway i waenganui o Kingston nā te whakatuwheratanga o Calcutta Kitchen i ngā wā tata nei.
I tipu ake a Aditi Goswami i ngā taha o Calcutta i te mutunga o ngā tau 70 me 80, ā, ko te kīhini whānau he raupapa o ngā huihuinga mai i te parakuihi ki te tina o te poutumarotanga, mai i te tī o te ahiahi ki ngā tina whānau nui. Ahakoa he māra kai nui tōna pāpā, ko te nuinga o te kīhini nā tōna kuia. "Kāore au i te mōhio ki te ao me te kore tunu kai. Ki te kore koe e tunu kai, kāore koe e kai," te kōrero a Goswami mō Īnia i mua i te wā o te kai tere i mua i te tango kai, i te wā ko ngā ahi te ngākau o te kāinga. "He kai tunu kai tino pai tōku kuia. Kāore tōku pāpā i tunu kai i ia rā, engari he tino tohunga kai ia. I hokona e ia ngā kai katoa, ā, i aro nui ki te hou, te kounga me te wā. Ko ia me tōku kuia te tangata i tino ako i ahau ki te titiro ki te kai, ki te whakaaro ki te kai." Ā, ko te tikanga, me pēhea te tunu kai.
I a Goswami e mahi pukumahi ana i roto i te kīhini, ka tīmata ia ki te mahi i ngā mahi pēnei i te tihore pī mai i te whā o ōna tau, ā, i tipu haere tonu ōna pūkenga me ōna kawenga tae noa ki te 12 o ōna tau, ka taea e ia te taka kai katoa. Pērā i tōna matua, i tipu ake tōna ngākau nui ki te māra. "He hiahia nui tōku ki te whakatipu me te tunu kai," te kī a Goswami, "he aha te mea ka huri hei aha, me pēhea te hurihanga o ngā kai me te whakamahinga rerekē i roto i ngā rihi rerekē."
I muri i tana marena i te 25 o ōna tau, me tana neke ki te Hononga o Amerika, i whakaurua a Goswami ki te ahurea tuku kai mā roto i tētahi wāhi mahi o Amerika. Heoi, e mau tonu ana ia ki tana tikanga tunu kai kāinga i te taiwhenua o Connecticut, arā, te taka kai mā tōna whānau me ngā manuhiri i roto i tētahi momo manaaki manuhiri tuku iho, ā-Inia.
"He pai tonu ki ahau te ngahau nā te mea he pai ki ahau te whāngai i te tangata, kaua ki te whakarite i ngā rōpū nui, engari he karanga noa i te tangata ki te tina," tana kī. "Ahakoa kei konei rātou ki te tākaro me ngā tamariki, ki te hoatu tī me te kai mā rātou." Ko ngā whakaaro a te Goswami i ahu mai i te kore. Nui atu te harikoa o ngā hoa me ngā hoa noho tata.
Nō reira, i te whakatenatena a ōna hoa, ka tīmata a Goswami ki te hanga me te hoko i ētahi o āna chutney i te mākete pāmu o Connecticut i te tau 2009. I roto i ngā wiki e rua, ka whakatūria e ia a Calcutta Kitchens LLC, ahakoa kei te kī tonu ia kāore ia i te whakaaro ki te tīmata i tētahi pakihi. Kua tukuna ngā chutney ki ngā ranu kohuatia, he ara poto ki te hanga kai Inia pono me te iti o ngā kai. He urutaunga katoa ēnei o āna kai i te kāinga, ā, kei te wātea ngā tohutao me te kore e ngaro te reka.
I roto i ngā tau 13 mai i te whakarewatanga o Calcutta Kitchens e Goswami, kua piki haere te rārangi chutney, te hupa me ngā ranunga mea kakara a Goswami ki te hoko puta noa i te motu, ahakoa ko tana momo hononga tūmatanui tuatahi me te tino pai ko ngā mākete a ngā kaimahi pāmu. I tana tūnga mākete, ka tīmata a Goswami ki te hoko kai kua oti te whakarite me āna kai kēne, he mea motuhake ki ngā kai vegan me ngā kai huawhenua. "Kāore e taea e au te whakaoti - e kite ana ahau i te hiahia tūturu mōna," tana kī. "He pai te kai Inia mō ngā kai huawhenua me ngā vegan, ahakoa kāore he kuruteni, kāore he take ki te ngana ki te rerekē."
I roto i ēnei tau katoa o te wheako, ka tīmata te whakaaro ki te hanga toa hokohoko i roto i tōna hinengaro. E toru tau ki muri, ka neke a Goswami ki te Hudson Valley, ā, ka tau pai ngā mea katoa. "Nō tēnei rohe katoa aku hoa mahi pāmu i te mākete," tana kī. "E hiahia ana ahau ki te noho ki te wāhi e noho ana rātou. He tino maioha te hapori o te rohe ki tēnei kai."
I Inia, ko te "tiffin" e pā ana ki tētahi kai māmā o te ahiahi, he rite ki te tī o te ahiahi i te UK, te merienda i Pāniora, te kai reka i muri i te kura i te US rānei – he kai whakawhiti i waenga i te tina me te kai pō, he reka hoki. Ka whakamahia hoki te kupu hei whakaahua i te whakamahinga a te katoa mai i ngā tamariki kura ki ngā kaiwhakahaere kamupene i Inia i ngā ipu kua whakarārangihia ki te maitai kore waikura hei tākai i ā rātou kai me ngā wāhanga rerekē mō ngā rihi rerekē. (I ngā tāone nui, he mekameka nui o ngā wharekai i roto i ngā waka tereina me ngā pahikara e tuku ana i ngā kai wera hou mai i ngā kīhini kāinga tika ki ngā wāhi mahi – te tuku kai OG ki Grub-Hub.)
Kāore a Goswami i te pai ki ngā kai nui, ā, e ngaro ana ia i tēnei āhuatanga o te oranga i Inia. "I Inia, ka taea e koe te haere ki ēnei wāhi mō te tī me te kai tere," tana kī. "He tōnati me te kawhe kei reira, engari kāore au e hiahia tonu ki te kai reka, ki te hanawiti nui, ki te pereti nui rānei. He kai iti noa iho taku e hiahia ana, he mea kei waenganui."
Heoi, kāore ia i te whakaaro ka taea e ia te whakakī i tētahi āputa i roto i te kai o Amerika. Nā Goswami, i noho tuturu ki ngā mākete pāmu o Chord me Kingston, ka tīmata ia ki te rapu kai arumoni. Nā tētahi hoa ia i whakauru ki te rangatira whenua o 448 Broadway i Kingston, te wāhi i tū ai te Artisan Bakery i mua. "I taku kitenga i tēnei wāhi, ka tau tonu ngā mea katoa e hurihuri ana i roto i tōku mahunga ki tōna wāhi tika," te kī a Goswami – ngā tina, tana raina, ngā kai kai Inia.
"I taku whakatau ki te whakatuwhera i Kingston, kāore au i mōhio kāore he wharekai Īnia i konei," te kī a Goswami me te ataata. "Kāore au i hiahia kia noho hei paionia. I noho noa ahau ki konei, ā, e aroha ana ahau ki Kingston, nō reira i whakaaro ahau he pai. I rite ki te mea kei te mahia i te wā tika, i te wāhi tika hoki."
Mai i te whakatuwheratanga i te 4 o Mei, e rima ngā rā o te wiki e mahi ana a Goswami i ngā kai Inia i hangaia i te kāinga i tana toa i 448 Broadway. E toru o rātou he kai huawhenua, e rua he mīti. Kāore he tahua kai, ka tunua e ia te mea e hiahia ana ia i runga i te rangi me ngā kai o te wā. "He rite ki te kīhini o tō whaea," te kī a Goswami. "Ka tomo koe ka pātai, 'He aha te kai o te pō nei?' Ka mea atu ahau, "Nāku tēnei i tunu," kātahi ka kai koe. "I roto i te kīhini tuwhera, ka kite koe i te Goswami e mahi ana, ā, he rite ki te kukume i tētahi tūru ki te tēpu kai a tētahi i a rātou e tapatapahi ana, e whakaoho ana, e kōrero ana i runga i ō rātou pakihiwi."
Ka whakaputaina ngā hua o ia rā mā roto i ngā Pakiwaitara Instagram. Ko ngā kai tīmatanga hou ko te heihei biryani me te koshimbier, he huamata makariri noa iho nō Īnia ki te Tonga, te googni, te kari pī maroke Bengali e tukuna ana me te chutney tamarind me ngā parāoa reka. "Ko te nuinga o ngā rihi Īnia he momo hupa," te kī a Goswami. "Koia te take he reka ake i te rā e whai ake nei." paratha He pai ki ngā parāoa papatahi tio tēnei. He tī wera me te wai rēmana makariri hoki hei whakareka i te kai.
Kei ngā pakitara o tētahi wāhi kokonga mārama, hauhautanga hoki ngā ipu ranu me ngā chutney e koropupū ana mai i ngā kai o Kolkata, me ngā tohutao kua ata whiriwhiria. E hoko ana hoki a Goswami i ngā kai matua o Īnia, mai i ngā huawhenua pīkara ki te raihi basmati e kitea whānuitia ana, ngā momo dal (pīni) me ētahi mea kakara uaua ki te kitea engari he mea nui pērā i te hing (asafetida). Kei runga, kei roto hoki i te ara hikoi ngā tēpu bistro, ngā tūru ringaringa me tētahi tēpu roa mō te katoa, e tumanako ana a Goswami kia whakahaerehia he akomanga tunu kai Īnia i tētahi rā.
Mō tēnei tau pea, ka mahi tonu a Goswami i te Mākete Kaiahuwhenua o Kingston, tae atu ki ngā mākete ā-marama i Larchmont, Phoenicia me Park Slope. "E kore e rite taku e mōhio ana, e mahi ana hoki, ki te kore he whanaungatanga pumau kei a au me ngā kiritaki, ā, ko ā rātou urupare ka awe i taku mahi me te wheako e tukuna ana e au," tana kī. "E tino mihi ana ahau ki ngā mātauranga i riro mai i ahau i te mākete kaiahuwhenua, ā, ki taku whakaaro me pupuri tonu taua hononga."
Ngā Tapanga: wharekai, kai Inia, tina, kai tango kai Inia, wharekai kingston, wharekai kingston, mākete motuhake, toa hoko kai Inia, kai kolkata, aditigoswami