Tau ob peb xyoos dhau los no, Kingston tau pom muaj kev vam meej hauv cov khw noj mov tshiab. Muaj cov ramen noodles tiag tiag, cov tais poke, cov dumplings, Turkish takeaway, pizza hluav taws kub, donuts, thiab, tau kawg, cov zaub mov Asmeskas tshiab. Cov khw noj mov Esxias thiab cov khw muag taco muaj ntau heev. Tab sis rau ntau tus, suav nrog cov plaub hau daj, tus kws sau ntawv thiab tus neeg nyob hauv Mumbai uas tsis paub meej, qhov tsis muaj lub tsev noj mov Is Nrias teb - txawm tias yog hom vaj, nqaij qaib tikka, smorgasbord, thiab lwm yam - yog qhov teeb meem loj. Tab sis thaum kawg, thaum kawg, cov zaub mov Is Nrias teb (thiab cov zaub mov tseem ceeb) thaum kawg tau nyob ntawm Broadway hauv plawv nroog Kingston ua tsaug rau qhov qhib tsis ntev los no ntawm Calcutta Kitchen.
Aditi Goswami loj hlob nyob rau sab nraud ntawm Calcutta thaum xyoo 70s thiab 80s thiab chav ua noj hauv tsev neeg yog ntau yam xwm txheej txij thaum noj tshais mus txog noj hmo tav su, txij thaum haus tshuaj yej thaum tav su mus txog noj hmo loj hauv tsev neeg. Txawm hais tias nws txiv yog tus neeg ua teb ua vaj, chav ua noj feem ntau yog nws yawm txiv li. "Kuv tsis paub lub neej yam tsis tau ua noj. Yog tias koj tsis ua noj, koj tsis noj mov," Goswami hais txog Is Nrias teb ua ntej lub sijhawm noj mov ceev ua ntej noj mov sab nraud, thaum lub qhov cub tseem yog lub plawv ntawm lub tsev. "Kuv yawm txiv yog tus ua noj zoo heev. Kuv txiv tsis tau ua noj txhua hnub, tab sis nws yog tus neeg noj zaub mov zoo heev. Nws yuav tag nrho cov khoom xyaw thiab ua tib zoo saib xyuas qhov tshiab, qhov zoo thiab lub caij nyoog. Nws thiab kuv yawm txiv Tus uas qhia kuv tiag tiag yuav ua li cas saib zaub mov, xav txog zaub mov li cas. "Thiab, ntawm chav kawm, yuav ua li cas ua zaub mov.
Goswami ua haujlwm hnyav hauv chav ua noj, thiab nws tau ua tej haujlwm xws li tev taum pauv txij thaum nws muaj plaub xyoos, thiab nws cov txuj ci thiab lub luag haujlwm tau txuas ntxiv mus txog thaum nws muaj 12 xyoos, thaum nws muaj peev xwm ua zaub mov tiav. Ib yam li nws txiv, nws tau mob siab rau kev ua teb. "Kuv xav cog qoob loo thiab ua zaub mov," Goswami hais tias, "dab tsi dhau los ua dab tsi, cov khoom xyaw hloov pauv li cas thiab lawv siv li cas sib txawv hauv cov tais diav sib txawv."
Tom qab nws sib yuav thaum muaj hnub nyoog 25 xyoos thiab tsiv mus rau Tebchaws Meskas, Goswami tau paub txog kev xa zaub mov los ntawm ib qho chaw ua haujlwm hauv Asmeskas. Txawm li cas los xij, nws tseem ua raws li nws txoj kev ua noj ua haus hauv tsev hauv thaj chaw deb nroog Connecticut, npaj zaub mov rau nws tsev neeg thiab cov qhua hauv kev tos txais qhua ib txwm muaj ntawm Is Nrias teb.
"Kuv yeej ib txwm nyiam ua si lom zem vim kuv nyiam pub mov rau tib neeg noj, tsis yog ua kev lom zem loj thiab tsuas yog caw tib neeg tuaj noj hmo xwb," nws hais. "Los yog txawm tias lawv nyob ntawm no los ua si nrog cov menyuam, muab tshuaj yej thiab ib yam dab tsi rau lawv noj." Cov lus thov ntawm Goswami yog ua los ntawm kos. Cov phooj ywg thiab cov neeg zej zog zoo siab heev.
Yog li ntawd, los ntawm kev txhawb nqa los ntawm nws cov phooj ywg, Goswami pib ua thiab muag qee yam ntawm nws cov chutneys ntawm lub khw muag khoom ua liaj ua teb hauv Connecticut hauv xyoo 2009. Hauv ob lub lis piam, nws tau tsim Calcutta Kitchens LLC, txawm hais tias nws tseem hais tias nws tsis muaj lub siab xav pib ua lag luam. Chutneys tau muab txoj hauv kev rau cov kua ntses simmering, ib txoj hauv kev luv luv rau kev ua zaub mov Is Nrias teb tiag tiag nrog ob peb yam khoom xyaw. Cov no yog txhua yam kev hloov kho ntawm yam nws ua noj hauv tsev, thiab cov zaub mov txawv muaj yam tsis poob qhov saj.
Txij li thaum Goswami tau tsim Calcutta Kitchens tau 13 xyoos, Goswami cov khoom noj chutney, stews thiab cov txuj lom sib xyaw tau loj hlob mus rau kev muag khoom thoob plaws lub tebchaws, txawm hais tias nws thawj thiab nyiam tshaj plaws ntawm kev sib raug zoo rau pej xeem yeej ib txwm yog cov khw muag khoom ua liaj ua teb. Ntawm nws lub khw muag khoom, Goswami pib muag cov khoom noj uas tau npaj ua tiav nrog rau nws cov khoom noj hauv qab, tshwj xeeb hauv cov khoom noj vegan thiab cov khoom noj tsis muaj nqaij. "Kuv yeej tsis tuaj yeem ua tiav nws - Kuv pom tias muaj kev xav tau tiag tiag rau nws," nws hais. "Cov khoom noj Is Nrias teb zoo heev rau cov neeg tsis noj nqaij thiab cov neeg tsis noj nqaij, thiab txawm tias tsis muaj gluten, tsis tas yuav sim ua txawv."
Nrog rau tag nrho cov xyoo ntawm kev paub dhau los no, lub tswv yim ntawm kev tsim lub khw muag khoom tau pib loj hlob qee qhov chaw hauv qab ntawm nws lub siab. Peb xyoos dhau los, Goswami tau tsiv mus rau Hudson Valley thiab txhua yam tau poob rau hauv qhov chaw. "Tag nrho kuv cov phooj ywg ua liaj ua teb hauv kev ua lag luam yog los ntawm thaj av no," nws hais. "Kuv xav nyob qhov chaw uas lawv nyob. Cov zej zog hauv zos yeej txaus siab rau cov zaub mov no."
Hauv Is Nrias teb, "tiffin" txhais tau hais tias pluas mov thaum tav su me me, sib npaug rau tshuaj yej thaum tav su hauv UK, merienda hauv Spain, lossis khoom noj txom ncauj tom qab kawm ntawv hauv Tebchaws Meskas - pluas mov hloov pauv ntawm pluas su thiab pluas hmo uas tuaj yeem qab zib. Lo lus no kuj siv tau los piav qhia txog txhua tus neeg los ntawm cov menyuam kawm ntawv mus rau cov thawj coj ntawm lub tuam txhab hauv Is Nrias teb siv cov thawv stainless hlau los ntim lawv cov pluas noj nrog cov chaw sib txawv rau cov tais diav sib txawv. (Hauv cov nroog loj, ntau lub khw noj mov hauv tsheb ciav hlau thiab tsheb kauj vab xa cov pluas noj kub tshiab los ntawm chav ua noj hauv tsev ncaj qha mus rau qhov chaw ua haujlwm - OG xa zaub mov mus rau Grub-Hub.)
Goswami tsis nyiam pluas mov loj thiab nws nco qhov no ntawm lub neej hauv Is Nrias teb. "Hauv Is Nrias teb, koj tuaj yeem mus rau cov chaw no rau tshuaj yej thiab khoom noj ceev ceev," nws hais. "Muaj donuts thiab kas fes, tab sis kuv tsis tas li xav tau qab zib, sandwich loj lossis tais loj. Kuv tsuas xav tau me ntsis khoom noj txom ncauj, ib yam dab tsi nyob nruab nrab."
Txawm li cas los xij, nws tsis tas yuav xav tias nws tuaj yeem ua tiav qhov tsis txaus hauv kev ua zaub mov Asmeskas. Goswami, uas nyob tas mus li hauv cov khw muag khoom ua liaj ua teb ntawm Chord thiab Kingston, pib nrhiav cov zaub mov lag luam. Ib tug phooj ywg tau qhia nws rau tus tswv tsev ntawm 448 Broadway hauv Kingston, qhov chaw uas Artisan Bakery tau nyob. "Thaum kuv pom qhov chaw no, txhua yam uas tig hauv kuv lub taub hau tam sim ntawd poob rau hauv qhov chaw," Goswami hais - tiffins, nws cov kab, cov khoom xyaw zaub mov Is Nrias teb.
"Thaum kuv txiav txim siab qhib hauv Kingston, kuv tsis paub tias tsis muaj lub tsev noj mov Is Nrias teb nyob ntawm no," Goswami hais nrog luag nyav. "Kuv tsis xav ua ib tug pioneer. Kuv tsuas yog nyob ntawm no thiab kuv hlub Kingston yog li kuv xav tias nws yuav zoo. Nws zoo li nws tau ua tiav rau lub sijhawm thiab qhov chaw zoo."
Txij li thaum qhib rau lub Tsib Hlis 4, Goswami tau muab cov zaub mov Is Nrias teb ua hauv tsev tsib hnub hauv ib lub lim tiam ntawm nws lub khw ntawm 448 Broadway. Peb ntawm lawv yog cov neeg tsis noj nqaij thiab ob yog nqaij. Yog tsis muaj daim ntawv qhia zaub mov, nws ua noj txhua yam nws xav tau raws li huab cua thiab cov khoom xyaw rau lub caij. "Nws zoo li koj niam chav ua noj," Goswami hais. "Koj taug kev mus rau hauv thiab nug, 'Dab tsi yog noj hmo no? Kuv hais tias, "Kuv ua qhov no," thiab tom qab ntawd koj noj. "Hauv chav ua noj qhib, koj tuaj yeem pom Goswami ua haujlwm, thiab nws zoo li rub lub rooj zaum mus rau ntawm ib tus neeg lub rooj noj mov thaum lawv txuas ntxiv txiav thiab do thiab tham hla lawv lub xub pwg nyom.
Cov khoom lag luam txhua hnub raug tshaj tawm los ntawm Instagram Stories. Cov khoom noj txom ncauj tsis ntev los no suav nrog nqaij qaib biryani thiab koshimbier, ib qho zaub xam lav txias South Indian, googni, taum qhuav Bengali curry noj nrog tamarind chutney thiab qab zib buns. "Feem ntau cov tais diav Is Nrias teb yog qee yam stew," Goswami hais. "Yog vim li cas nws saj zoo dua hnub tom qab." paratha Cov khob cij flatbreads khov zoo li no. Kuj tseem muaj tshuaj yej kub thiab dej txiv qaub txias kom qab zib.
Cov thawv kua ntses thiab cov chutneys los ntawm Kolkata cov zaub mov teeb tsa ntawm phab ntsa ntawm ib lub ces kaum kaj thiab cua nkag, nrog rau cov zaub mov txawv uas tau xaiv zoo. Goswami kuj muag cov khoom noj Is Nrias teb, txij li cov zaub pickled mus rau cov mov basmati uas muaj nyob txhua qhov chaw, ntau hom dal (lentils) thiab qee cov txuj lom uas nyuaj nrhiav tab sis tseem ceeb xws li hing (asafetida). Ntawm thiab sab hauv ntawm txoj kev taug kev muaj cov rooj bistro, cov rooj zaum thiab ib lub rooj ntev uas Goswami vam tias yuav muaj ib hnub muaj chav kawm ua noj Is Nrias teb.
Tsawg kawg yog rau xyoo no, Goswami yuav txuas ntxiv ua haujlwm ntawm Kingston Farmers' Market, nrog rau cov khw muag khoom txhua hli ntawm Larchmont, Phoenicia thiab Park Slope. "Yam kuv paub thiab ua yuav tsis zoo ib yam yog tsis muaj kev phooj ywg tas mus li uas kuv muaj nrog cov neeg siv khoom, thiab lawv cov lus tawm tswv yim cuam tshuam rau yam kuv ua thiab qhov kev paub uas kuv muab," nws hais. "Kuv ua tsaug ntau rau cov kev paub uas kuv tau txais los ntawm kev ua lag luam ntawm cov neeg ua liaj ua teb thiab kuv xav tias kuv yuav tsum tau txuas ntxiv mus."
Cov Npe: tsev noj mov, khoom noj Is Nrias teb, tiffin, Is Nrias teb coj mus tsev, tsev noj mov Kingston, tsev noj mov Kingston, khw muag khoom tshwj xeeb, khw muag khoom noj Is Nrias teb, zaub mov Kolkata, aditigoswami