Mu myaka mike ishize, Kingston yabonye iterambere ryinshi muri resitora nshya. Hari noodles za ramen nyazo, poke balls, dumplings, takeaway yo muri Turukiya, pizza ikoreshwa mu nkwi, donuts, ndetse birumvikana ko hari n'ibiryo bishya byo muri Amerika. Resitora zo muri Aziya n'amaduka ya taco ari menshi. Ariko kuri benshi, harimo n'umwanditsi w'umuhondo, ukomoka i Mumbai akaba n'umuturage, kutagira resitora y'Abahinde - ndetse n'ubwoko bw'ubusitani, chicken tikka, smorgasbord, n'ibindi nk'ibyo - ni ikibazo gikomeye. Ariko amaherezo, amaherezo, ibiryo by'Abahinde (n'ibiryo by'ibanze) birageze kuri Broadway mu mujyi wa Kingston bitewe n'ifungurwa riherutse gukorwa rya Calcutta Kitchen.
Aditi Goswami yakuriye mu nkengero za Calcutta mu mpera za 70 na 80, igikoni cy'umuryango cyaberaga mu buryo butandukanye kuva mu gitondo kugeza ku ifunguro rya nimugoroba rya saa sita, kuva ku cyayi cya nyuma ya saa sita kugeza ku mafunguro ya nimugoroba y'umuryango. Nubwo se yari umuhinzi ukomeye, igikoni cyari gituwe cyane na nyirakuru. Goswami yavuze ku Buhinde mbere y'igihe cy'ibiryo byihuse mbere yo kubirya, ubwo amashyiga yari akiri umutima w'urugo. “Nyogokuru yari umutetsi mwiza. Papa ntiyatekaga buri munsi, ariko yari umuhinzi w'ibiryo. Yaguraga ibikoresho byose kandi akita cyane ku bishya, ubwiza n'ibihe. We na nyogokuru Uwanyigishije cyane uburyo bwo kureba ibiryo, gutekereza ku biryo.” Kandi, birumvikana, uburyo bwo guteka ibiryo.
Yakoranye umwete mu gikoni, Goswami yakoraga imirimo nko gukata amashaza kuva afite imyaka ine, kandi ubuhanga bwe n'inshingano ze byakomeje kwiyongera kugeza afite imyaka 12, ubwo yashoboraga gutegura ifunguro ryuzuye. Kimwe na se, yatangiye gukunda ubuhinzi. Goswami agira ati: “Nshishikajwe no guhinga no guteka ibiryo, ibihinduka iki, uburyo ibintu bihinduka n'uko bikoreshwa mu buryo butandukanye mu mafunguro atandukanye.”
Nyuma yo gushyingirwa afite imyaka 25 akimukira muri Leta Zunze Ubumwe za Amerika, Goswami yamenyeshejwe umuco wo gutanga ibiryo binyuze mu kazi k’Abanyamerika. Ariko, akomeje gukurikiza umuco we wo guteka mu rugo mu cyaro cya Connecticut, ategurira amafunguro umuryango we n’abashyitsi mu buryo bworoheje kandi gakondo bw’Abahinde.
Yagize ati: “Nakunze kwishimisha kuko nkunda kugaburira abantu, ntabwo nkora ibirori bikomeye no gutumira abantu gusa.” “Cyangwa nubwo baba bari hano gukina n'abana, kubaha icyayi n'icyo kurya.” Ibyifuzo bya Goswami byatanzwe kuva ku busa. Inshuti n'abaturanyi barishimye cyane.
Bityo, ashishikajwe na bagenzi be, Goswami yatangiye gukora no kugurisha zimwe muri chutney ze ku isoko ry'abahinzi ryo muri Connecticut mu 2009. Mu byumweru bibiri, yashinze Calcutta Kitchens LLC, nubwo akomeje kuvuga ko nta mugambi afite wo gutangiza ubucuruzi. Chutney zasimbuwe no guteka isosi, inzira y'uburinzi yo gukora ibiryo by'umwimerere byo mu Buhinde bifite ibintu bike. Ibi byose ni uburyo bwo guhindura ibyo ateka mu rugo, kandi resept ziraboneka nta gutakaza uburyohe.
Mu myaka 13 kuva Goswami yatangiza Calcutta Kitchens, ubwoko bwa chutneys, isupu n'ibirungo bya Goswami byagiye bigurishwa mu gihugu hose, nubwo uburyo bwa mbere akunda bwo kwamamaza rusange bwahoraga ari amasoko y'abahinzi. Ku isoko rye, Goswami yatangiye kugurisha ibiryo byatetse hamwe n'ibiryo bye byo mu macupa, yibanda ku biribwa by'abarya inyama n'abarya inyama. Yagize ati: “Sinshobora kubirangiza - ndabona ko ari ngombwa cyane.” “Ibiryo byo mu Buhinde ni byiza ku barya inyama n'abarya inyama, ndetse no kutagira gluten, nta mpamvu yo kugerageza kuba umuntu utandukanye na byo.”
Nyuma y'imyaka myinshi y'uburambe, igitekerezo cyo kubaka iduka cyatangiye kumera neza mu mutwe we. Mu myaka itatu ishize, Goswami yimukiye mu kibaya cya Hudson maze byose biragenda neza. Yagize ati: “Inshuti zanjye zose z'abahinzi ku isoko zikomoka muri aka karere. Ndashaka gutura aho batuye. Abaturage bo muri ako gace bishimira cyane ibi biribwa.”
Mu Buhinde, "tiffin" yerekeza ku ifunguro ryoroshye rya nyuma ya saa sita, ringana n'icyayi cya nyuma ya saa sita mu Bwongereza, merienda muri Esipanye, cyangwa ifunguro risanzwe ridasanzwe nyuma y'ishuri muri Amerika - ifunguro ry'agateganyo hagati ya saa sita na nimugoroba rishobora kuba riryoshye. Iri jambo rikoreshwa kandi mu buryo butandukanye mu gusobanura uburyo buri wese kuva ku banyeshuri kugeza ku bayobozi b'ibigo mu Buhinde bakoresha ibikoresho by'icyuma gifunganye kugira ngo bashyire amafunguro yabo mu bice bitandukanye byo gushyiramo amafunguro atandukanye. (Mu mijyi minini, uruhererekane runini rw'amaresitora mu modoka za gari ya moshi n'amagare bitanga amafunguro mashya ashyushye ava mu gikoni cyo mu rugo agana ku kazi - OG ibiryo bigezwa kuri Grub-Hub.)
Goswami ntakunda amafunguro menshi kandi akumbuye iki gice cy'ubuzima mu Buhinde. Yagize ati: “Mu Buhinde, ushobora kujya muri ibi bice ukarya icyayi n'ibiryo byihuse. Hariho amadonati na kawa, ariko sinifuza buri gihe ibiryo biryoshye, sandwich nini cyangwa isahani nini. Ndashaka gusa utuntu duto, ikintu kiri hagati.”
Ariko, ntabwo yumva ko ashobora kuziba icyuho mu biryo byo muri Amerika. Goswami, wabaga burundu mu masoko y'abahinzi ya Chord na Kingston, yatangiye gushaka ibiryo by'ubucuruzi. Inshuti ye yamugejejeho nyir'inzu ya 448 Broadway i Kingston, aho Artisan Bakery yahoze iba. “Nkibona aha hantu, ibintu byose byari bizunguruka mu mutwe wanjye byahise bihinduka,” uko ni ko Goswami avuga – tiffins, umurongo we, ibikoresho by'ibiribwa byo mu Buhinde.
“Ubwo nafataga icyemezo cyo gufungura i Kingston, sinari nzi ko nta resitora y’Abahinde ihari,” Goswami yavuze amwenyura. “Sinifuzaga kuba umupayiniya. Nabaye hano gusa kandi nkunda Kingston bityo nibwiraga ko byaba byiza. Numvaga ari nk’aho bikorwa mu gihe gikwiye kandi mu mwanya ukwiye.”
Kuva yafungurwa ku ya 4 Gicurasi, Goswami amaze iminsi itanu mu cyumweru atanga ibiryo byo mu Buhinde byakorewe mu rugo mu iduka rye riri kuri 448 Broadway. Bitatu muri byo byari iby'ibikomoka ku bimera naho bibiri byari inyama. Adafite menu, ateka icyo ashaka cyose bitewe n'ikirere n'ibikoresho by'igihe. “Bimeze nk'igikoni cya nyoko,” Goswami yaravuze. “Winjiye ubaza uti 'Ni iki cyo kurya ifunguro rya nimugoroba iri joro?' Ndavuga nti “Nabitekeye,” hanyuma urya. “Mu gikoni gifunguye, urabona Goswami ikora, kandi ni nko gukurura intebe ku meza yo kuriramo y'umuntu mu gihe bakomeza gukata no gukaraba no kuganira ku bitugu byabo.
Ibicuruzwa bya buri munsi bitangazwa binyuze kuri Instagram Stories. Ibyokurya biheruka birimo biryani y'inkoko na koshimbier, salade ikonje isanzwe yo mu Buhinde bw'Amajyepfo, googni, amashaza yumye ya Bengali curry itangwa na chutney ya tamarind n'ibiryo biryoshye. Goswami yagize ati: “Amafunguro menshi yo mu Buhinde ni nk'isupu. Niyo mpamvu biryoha neza umunsi ukurikiyeho.” Paratha Ibyokurya bikonje nk'ibi. Hariho kandi icyayi gishyushye na limonade ikonje kugira ngo biryoshye.
Amacupa y'isosi n'amacupa yo mu biryo bya Kolkata agaragara ku nkuta z'ahantu heza kandi hashyushye, hamwe n'amafunguro yateguwe neza. Goswami igurisha kandi ibiryo by'ibanze byo mu Buhinde, kuva ku mboga zavanzwe kugeza ku muceri wa basmati ukunze kuboneka hose, ubwoko butandukanye bwa dal (lentils) hamwe n'ibirungo bimwe na bimwe bigoye kubibona ariko by'ingenzi nka hing (asafetida). Ku muhanda no imbere hari ameza ya bistro, intebe zo ku ruhande n'ameza maremare aho Goswami yifuza ko umunsi umwe azaba afite isomo ryo guteka mu Buhinde.
Muri uyu mwaka byibuze, Goswami azakomeza gukorera ku isoko ry’abahinzi rya Kingston, ndetse n’amasoko ya buri kwezi ya Larchmont, Foyinike na Park Slope. Yagize ati: “Ibyo nzi n’ibyo nkora ntibyaba bimeze iyo nta bucuti buhoraho mfitanye n’abakiriya, kandi ibitekerezo byabo bigira ingaruka ku byo nkora n’uburambe ntanga.” “Ndishimira cyane ubumenyi nakuye ku isoko ry’abahinzi kandi numva nkeneye gukomeza ubwo bucuti.”
Ibirango: resitora, ibiryo by'Abahinde, tiffin, ibiryo byo mu Buhinde, resitora ya Kingston, resitora ya Kingston, isoko ryihariye, iduka ry'ibiribwa by'Abahinde, ibiryo bya Kolkata, aditigoswami