A cikin 'yan shekarun nan, Kingston ya ga bunƙasa a sabbin gidajen cin abinci. Akwai ainihin taliyar ramen, kwano mai kauri, dumplings, abincin Turkiyya, pizza mai wuta da itace, donuts, da kuma, ba shakka, sabbin abincin Amurka. Gidajen cin abinci na Asiya da shagunan taco sun yi yawa. Amma ga mutane da yawa, ciki har da marubuci kuma mazaunin Mumbai wanda ba a iya bayyana shi ba, rashin gidan cin abinci na Indiya - har ma da nau'ikan lambu, chicken tikka, smorgasbord, da makamantansu - babban abu ne. Amma a ƙarshe, a ƙarshe, abincin Indiya (da abinci mai mahimmanci) ya kasance a Broadway a tsakiyar birnin Kingston godiya ga buɗewar Calcutta Kitchen kwanan nan.
Aditi Goswami ta girma a wajen Calcutta a ƙarshen shekarun 70 da 80 kuma ɗakin girkin iyali ya kasance jerin abubuwan da suka faru tun daga karin kumallo zuwa abincin rana na rana, daga shayin rana zuwa manyan abincin dare na iyali. Duk da cewa mahaifinta mai sha'awar lambu ne, amma galibin kicin ɗin mallakar kakarta ne. "Ban san rayuwa ba tare da girki ba. Idan ba kwa girki, ba kwa cin abinci," in ji Goswami game da Indiya kafin zamanin abinci mai sauri kafin a ci, lokacin da murhu har yanzu shine zuciyar gida. "Kakata kwararriyar mai girki ce. Babana ba ya girki kowace rana, amma shi mai son abinci ne na gaske. Ya sayi dukkan kayan abinci kuma ya mai da hankali sosai ga sabo, inganci da yanayi. Shi da kakata Wanda ya koya mini yadda ake kallon abinci, yadda ake tunani game da abinci." Kuma, ba shakka, yadda ake girki abinci.
Tana aiki tukuru a ɗakin girki, Goswami ta ɗauki ayyuka kamar bare wake tun tana ɗan shekara huɗu, kuma ƙwarewarta da nauyinta sun ci gaba da ƙaruwa har sai da ta kai shekara 12, lokacin da ta sami damar shirya cikakken abinci. Kamar mahaifinta, ta fara sha'awar aikin lambu. "Ina sha'awar noma da dafa abinci," in ji Goswami, "abin da ke zama abin da ake ci, yadda sinadaran ke canzawa da kuma yadda ake amfani da su daban-daban a cikin abinci daban-daban."
Bayan ta yi aure tana da shekaru 25 kuma ta ƙaura zuwa Amurka, an gabatar da Goswami ga al'adar isar da abinci ta hanyar wurin aiki na Amurka. Duk da haka, ta ci gaba da bin al'adar girkin gida a yankunan karkara na Connecticut, tana shirya abinci ga iyalinta da baƙi a cikin salon karimci na gargajiya na Indiya.
"Ina son yin nishaɗi koyaushe saboda ina son ciyar da mutane, ba yin manyan liyafa ba kawai in gayyaci mutane su ci abincin dare," in ji ta. "Ko ma idan sun zo don yin wasa da yara, su ba su shayi da abin da za su ci." Shawarwarin Goswami an yi su ne daga farko. Abokai da maƙwabta sun yi matuƙar farin ciki.
Don haka, bayan ƙarfafa gwiwar takwarorinta, Goswami ta fara yin wasu daga cikin chutneys ɗinta a kasuwar manoma ta Connecticut a shekarar 2009. Cikin makonni biyu, ta kafa Calcutta Kitchens LLC, kodayake har yanzu tana cewa ba ta da niyyar fara kasuwanci. Chutneys sun ba da damar dafa miya, wata hanya ta yin abincin Indiya na gaske tare da ƙarancin sinadarai. Waɗannan duk sun dace da abin da take dafawa a gida, kuma girke-girken suna samuwa ba tare da rasa ɗanɗano ba.
A cikin shekaru 13 tun bayan da Goswami ta ƙaddamar da Calcutta Kitchens, jerin chutneys, stew da kayan ƙanshi na Goswami ya karu zuwa tallace-tallace a duk faɗin ƙasar, kodayake hanyar hulɗa da jama'a ta farko da ta fi so koyaushe ita ce kasuwannin manoma. A kasuwarta, Goswami ta fara sayar da abinci da aka shirya tare da abincin gwangwani, wanda ya ƙware a kan abincin vegan da na vegan. "Ba zan iya gamawa ba - na ga ainihin buƙatar sa," in ji ta. "Abincin Indiya yana da kyau ga masu cin ganyayyaki da masu cin ganyayyaki, har ma da marasa alkama, ba sai an yi ƙoƙarin bambanta ba."
Da duk wannan shekaru na gogewa, ra'ayin gina shagon sayar da kaya ya fara bayyana a wani wuri a cikin zuciyarta. Shekaru uku da suka gabata, Goswami ta ƙaura zuwa kwarin Hudson kuma komai ya daidaita. "Duk abokanaina manoma a kasuwa sun fito ne daga wannan yanki," in ji ta. "Ina so in zauna a inda suke zaune. Al'ummar yankin suna matukar godiya da wannan abincin."
A Indiya, "tiffin" yana nufin cin abinci mai sauƙi na rana, daidai da shayin rana a Burtaniya, merinenda a Spain, ko kuma abincin da ba shi da kyau bayan makaranta a Amurka - abinci mai canzawa tsakanin abincin rana da abincin dare wanda zai iya zama mai daɗi. Haka kuma ana amfani da kalmar a musayar ra'ayi don bayyana yadda kowa daga ɗaliban makaranta zuwa manyan kamfanoni a Indiya ke amfani da kwantena masu ɗauke da bakin ƙarfe don shirya abincinsu tare da ɗakuna daban-daban don jita-jita daban-daban. (A manyan birane, jerin gidajen cin abinci masu yawa a cikin motocin jirgin ƙasa da kekuna suna isar da abinci mai zafi sabo daga ɗakunan girki na gida kai tsaye zuwa wuraren aiki - isar da abinci na OG zuwa Grub-Hub.)
Goswami ba ya son manyan abinci kuma yana kewar wannan ɓangaren rayuwa a Indiya. "A Indiya, koyaushe za ku iya zuwa waɗannan wurare don shayi da abinci mai sauri," in ji ta. "Akwai donuts da kofi, amma ba koyaushe nake son ɗanɗano mai daɗi, babban sanwici ko babban faranti ba. Ina son ɗan abun ciye-ciye, wani abu a tsakani."
Duk da haka, ba lallai bane ta yi tunanin za ta iya cike gibin da ke tsakanin abincin Amurka ba. Goswami, wacce ke zaune a kasuwannin manoma na Chord da Kingston na dindindin, ta fara neman abincin kasuwanci. Wata ƙawarta ta gabatar da ita ga mai gidan 448 Broadway a Kingston, inda ake yin Artisan Bakery a da. "Lokacin da na ga wannan wuri, duk abin da ke juyawa a kaina ya faɗi nan da nan," in ji Goswami - tiffins, layinta, sinadaran abincin Indiya.
"Lokacin da na yanke shawarar buɗewa a Kingston, ban san babu gidan cin abinci na Indiya a nan ba," in ji Goswami yana murmushi. "Ban so in zama majagaba ba. Kawai ina zaune a nan kuma ina son Kingston don haka na yi tunanin zai yi kyau. Yana jin kamar ana yin sa a daidai lokacin da ya dace kuma a wurin da ya dace."
Tun lokacin da aka buɗe shi a ranar 4 ga Mayu, Goswami tana hidimar abincin Indiya na gida kwana biyar a mako a shagonsa da ke 448 Broadway. Uku daga cikinsu masu cin ganyayyaki ne, biyu kuma nama ne. Ba tare da menu ba, tana dafa duk abin da take so bisa ga yanayi da sinadaran yanayi. "Yana kama da kicin ɗin mahaifiyarka," in ji Goswami. "Ka shiga ka tambaya, 'Menene abincin dare a daren yau? Na ce, "Na dafa wannan," sannan ka ci. "A cikin ɗakin girki a buɗe, za ka iya ganin Goswami a wurin aiki, kuma kamar jan kujera zuwa teburin cin abinci na wani yayin da suke ci gaba da yanka da motsawa da hira a kafaɗunsu.
Ana buga kayayyakin yau da kullun ta hanyar Labarun Instagram. Abubuwan ciye-ciye na baya-bayan nan sun haɗa da biryani na kaza da koshimbier, salatin Indiya ta Kudu mai sanyi, googni, curry na Bengali busasshe da aka yi da tamarind chutney da buns mai daɗi. Goswami ya ce, "Yawancin abincin Indiya wani irin miya ne." "Shi ya sa yake da daɗi washegari." Paratha Frozen flatbreads kamar wannan. Akwai kuma shayi mai zafi da lemun tsami mai sanyi don ƙara daɗin ciniki.
Kwalaben miya da chutneys daga abincin Kolkata suna rufe bangon wani wuri mai haske da iska, tare da girke-girke da aka shirya da kyau. Goswami kuma tana sayar da kayan abinci na Indiya, daga kayan lambu da aka dafa zuwa shinkafar basmati da ake samu a ko'ina, nau'ikan dal (lentils) daban-daban da wasu kayan ƙanshi masu wahalar samu amma masu mahimmanci kamar hing (asafetida). A kan titin da kuma cikin titin akwai tebura na bistro, kujerun hannu da kuma dogon teburi na jama'a inda Goswami ke fatan wata rana za ta sami ajin girkin Indiya.
A wannan shekarar aƙalla, Goswami za ta ci gaba da aiki a Kasuwar Manoma ta Kingston, da kuma kasuwannin wata-wata a Larchmont, Phoenicia da Park Slope. "Abin da na sani da abin da nake yi ba zai kasance iri ɗaya ba tare da abota mai ɗorewa da nake da ita da abokan ciniki ba, kuma ra'ayoyinsu suna shafar abin da nake yi da kuma ƙwarewar da nake bayarwa," in ji ta. "Ina matukar godiya da ilimin da na samu daga kasuwar manoma kuma ina jin kamar ina buƙatar ci gaba da wannan alaƙar."
Lakabi: gidan cin abinci, abincin Indiya, tiffin, abincin Indiya da ake ci, gidan cin abinci na Kingston, gidan cin abinci na Kingston, kasuwa ta musamman, shagon kayan abinci na Indiya, abincin Kolkata, aditigoswami