Ua hoʻemi mākou i ka hana pepa a ua pale mākou i kāu uaki i ka hiki loa i hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻōki i ka hopohopo e pili ana i kāu uaki a kālele i ka leʻaleʻa iā ia.
Ua inikua ʻia kēlā me kēia o kāu mau wati a hiki i ka 150% o ke kumukūʻai i inikua ʻia (a hiki i ka huina kumukūʻai o ke kulekele).
Ua hoʻemi mākou i ka hana pepa a ua pale mākou i kāu uaki i ka hiki loa i hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻōki i ka hopohopo e pili ana i kāu uaki a kālele i ka leʻaleʻa iā ia.
Ua inikua ʻia kēlā me kēia o kāu mau wati a hiki i ka 150% o ke kumukūʻai i inikua ʻia (a hiki i ka huina kumukūʻai o ke kulekele).
Ua hoʻemi mākou i ka hana pepa a ua pale mākou i kāu uaki i ka hiki loa i hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻōki i ka hopohopo e pili ana i kāu uaki a kālele i ka leʻaleʻa iā ia.
Ua inikua ʻia kēlā me kēia o kāu mau wati a hiki i ka 150% o ke kumukūʻai i inikua ʻia (a hiki i ka huina kumukūʻai o ke kulekele).
ʻO kekahi o nā nūhou nui loa no Grand Seiko i ka makahiki 2020 ʻo ia ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana ʻaʻole wale i kahi uaki hou a i ʻole kahi neʻe hou, akā he pakele hou - kahi mea i hana pinepine ʻole ʻia i ka hana uaki, kahi hiki iā ʻoe ke helu ma kou mau manamana lima i kēlā me kēia kenekulia. hoʻokahi lima. ʻO ka pakele hou, i kapa ʻia ʻo Grand Seiko Dual Impulse Escapement no ka pōkole, ua hoʻomaka mua ʻia ma ke kumu hoʻohālike $43,000 palena palena 60th Anniversary ma ke gula, akā ua maopopo e ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka mīkini hou ma mua o ka hōʻiliʻili ma nā Hi-Finals. Ke hoʻolauna nei ʻo Grand Seiko i ka neʻe ʻana i loko o kahi uaki Hi-Beat hou: SLGH005 White Birch steel me kahi dial birch-bark patterned a me ka hihia 44GS-style. He kumu hoʻohālike hana maʻamau kēia, ʻaʻole he paʻi palena, a ʻo ke kumukūʻai he $9,100.
I kēia manawa, he mea hoʻonāukiuki iki kēia uaki iaʻu no ka mea, ʻo ke ʻano o ke pihi a pehea e hoʻohui ai me nā mea ʻē aʻe o ke pihi a me ka hoʻolālā holoʻokoʻa e kāhea maoli ana "e ʻike iaʻu ma ke kino". E ke kanaka, e like me ko lākou hoahānau ʻo Snowflake, he uaki kēia e mahalo piha ʻia (ʻoi aku ma mua o ka maʻamau). ʻOiai ma nā kūlana Grand Seiko, maikaʻi loa kēia mau helu kuhikuhi. Loaʻa iā lākou ke ʻano like me ka 60th Anniversary LE a he like ka hoʻolālā o nā lima. Hana ʻia nā lima minuke a me kekona mai ke kila Grand Seiko maʻamau, ʻoi aku ka ʻoi o ka lima minuke, a hana ʻia ka lima kekona mai ke kila polū. ʻO ke kuhi lōʻihi ma ka lima hola e kūlike me ke kuhi like ma nā māka hola a lawelawe ma ke ʻano he kōkua ʻike hou no ka heluhelu maopopo ʻana i ka manawa.
ʻO ke kiko, ʻoiaʻiʻo, he mea hoʻomanaʻo nui ia i nā hulu hau, akā ʻokoʻa ke ʻano mai nā hulu hau ma kahi leo ʻano ʻili. ʻO ia kekahi o nā wehewehe maoli o ka hoʻoulu kūlohelohe aʻu i manaʻo ai ua ʻike mākou ma Grand Seiko, ʻoiai he abstract nō ia ʻaʻole pono ʻoe e hana inā ʻaʻole i kapa pololei ʻo GS iā ia he "Birch". No ka hoʻonohonoho ʻana i kahi pilina kikoʻī iā ʻoe iho.
ʻO ka hoʻopau kaulana ʻo Grand Seiko "Zaratsu" he mea hoʻohiwahiwa e like me ka wā ma mua. Loaʻa ka hihia 44GS i nā ʻano wehewehe like ʻole o nā metala like ʻole - manaʻo wau he ʻoluʻolu loa ke gula, a ʻo nā ʻaoʻao ʻoi a me nā ʻili matte a poli ʻia e hāʻawi iā ia i kahi ʻano bullion. Akā ma kekahi ʻano, ʻo ka home maoli o ka polish o Zaratsu he kila, e like me ka Royal Oak, Nautilus, a me nā uaki ʻē aʻe (Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Girard-Perregaux Laureato) i ʻike ʻia he kila ka hapa nui. ʻO kahi mea o ka hihia 44GS aʻu i mahalo mau ai ʻo ia ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā lugs wili - hiki ke hoʻololi maʻalahi ʻia ke kūpeʻe lima i ke kaula a me ka hope, he waiwai nui ia no kahi uaki hanohano, makemake wau e hiki i nā mea hana ʻē aʻe ke hoʻohālike ʻOiaʻiʻo he pragmatic iki, malia paha, ʻoiai proletarian, kahi pā i nā uaki hanohano, akā ʻo ka hui ʻana o ka hanohano a me ka pono ua noho mau ʻo ia ka helu wahi o Grand Seiko.
ʻO ke ʻano maʻamau o ka Grand Seiko Hi-Beat ʻo ia ka ʻano 9S85. E like me nā manawa a pau, ʻo ka wehe ʻana o The Naked Watchmaker i ka 9S85 ka mea hoʻolauna maikaʻi loa i ka ʻano, a he akamai a kūpono hoʻi kāna mau manaʻo no ka ʻano:
"ʻO ke ʻano holoʻokoʻa o ka neʻe ʻana a me ka hihia e kūlike me ka pahuhopu o ka hoʻokumu ʻana i kahi uaki hilinaʻi a pololei hoʻi i hoʻolālā ʻia no ke ola lawelawe lōʻihi. ʻO ka hihia kila kila ʻelua ʻāpana paʻa e hōʻike ana i kekahi o nā paipu hihia ikaika loa i hana ʻia. Nā Makamae āpau ʻO ka neʻe ʻana he huila āpau i kau ʻia ma luna o nā rubies. Hoʻohui maikaʻi ka neʻe hopena i ke kūkulu paʻa kahiko me nā ʻenehana hana hou a me nā mea hoʻohuihui."
Eia nō naʻe, ua hoʻonoho maopopo ʻia ka neʻe ʻana o ka Hi-Beat 9SA5 hou ma ke ʻano he hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ke ʻano hana a me ka hoʻopau ʻana. Ma waho aʻe o ka escapement hou, ka mea i manaʻo ʻia he ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ma mua o nā levers maʻamau, ʻoi aku ka lahilahi o ka 9SA5. ʻO ke ana o ka 9S85 he 28.4mm x 5.99mm ʻoiai ʻo ka 9SA5 he 31.0mm x 5.18mm. A ʻo ka mana mālama he 80 mau hola, hoʻohālikelike ʻia me 55 mau hola no ka 9S85. Ua lawe ʻia hoʻi ka hoʻopau ʻana o ka neʻe ʻana i kahi pae hou, me ka hōʻike ʻana o ka 9S85 i nā ʻano machining maʻamau a me ka flawless o nā neʻe Grand Seiko āpau, ʻoiai ʻo ka 9SA5 he counterbore polished ʻoi aku ka ʻike.
Loaʻa i ka 9S85 nā hoʻololi ʻoi aku ka ʻoi mai ke alahaka a me ka ʻili cleat i nā ʻaoʻao kū pololei i hoʻopili pono ʻia, akā loaʻa i ka 9SA5 nā kihi maoli a me kahi rotor skeletonized e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ka neʻe ʻana ma mua o ka rotor 9S85 maʻamau. ʻO nā hoʻomaikaʻi ʻē aʻe e pili ana i nā pūnāwai wehe, ke kaulike nuipa hiki ke hoʻololi ʻia, ka pūnāwai kaulike supercoil, ke alahaka kaulike no ka hoʻonohonoho maikaʻi ʻana a me ke kū'ē ʻana i ka haʻalulu, a me kahi kaʻaahi holo i hoʻonohonoho hou ʻia mai ka mana 9C85 e hiki ai ke hoʻolālā pālahalaha a me ka hōʻemi 15%. pili nui ke kiʻekiʻe me ia.
ʻO Birch Bark SLGH005 (makemake au i ka inoa kūhelu, ʻoiai ʻaʻole maopopo iaʻu inā e hoʻēmi ana i ka makemake o nā mea pā GS e hāʻawi i ke kumu hoʻohālike i kona inoa ponoʻī) me he mea lā e hōʻike ana i kahi mea ākea e pili ana me nā mea pā Grand Seiko ma mua o Breathtaking, akā ua kau ʻia kahi paʻi palena pipiʻi loa i ka mālamalama i kēia makahiki.
ʻOi aku ke kiʻekiʻe o kēia ma mua o ka uaki 9S86 me 9S85 a me GMT a ʻoi aku ke kumukūʻai ma lalo o $6,000 ($5,800 no ka SBGH201). Eia nō naʻe, ma ka hoʻolilo ʻana i kahi mea hou aku, e loaʻa iā ʻoe kahi kumu hoʻohālike hana mua me kahi neʻe hou, hana ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi, kahi hoʻolālā palahalaha, kahi mālama mana i hoʻonui nui ʻia, a me kahi hoʻolālā neʻe maʻalahi e hoʻokūkū me nā neʻe uaki haʻuki ʻē aʻe e hana ʻia nei, e like me ka Escapement. Nā kumu hoʻohālike Rolex Chronergy a me Omega Co-Axial.
Hiki iaʻu ke hoʻopaʻapaʻa iki me ke kumukūʻai, akā e like me ka SBGZ005 aʻu i kākau ai, he kiʻekiʻe iki ke kumukūʻai i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka hoʻokūkū, akā ʻaʻole ia he mea kūpono ʻole. Eia kekahi, hāʻawi ka ʻili birch i kahi hana kupaianaha o nā mea i ʻike ʻia o ka uaki. Ke manaʻolana nei au no kahi kūpeʻe lima maʻamau, ʻoiai ʻaʻole wau e kahaha inā e hana ʻia ana (manaʻo wau ʻo ia kekahi o nā mea pale liʻiliʻi i ka pani ʻana i kahi ʻaelike no nā mea kūʻai aku GS he nui). I ka mōʻaukala, he uaki koʻikoʻi kēia no Grand Seiko, e hōʻailona ana i kahi hanana koʻikoʻi i ka hoʻomohala ʻana o ka hui.
ʻO Grand Seiko SLGH005 Birch Bark, Grand Seiko Heritage Collection: ʻO ka hihia kila kila kila i hoʻopili ʻia me Zaratsu a me ke kūpeʻe lima, ka hihia 40mm x 11.7mm, ke alo o ka ʻili birch, ka hihia kristal sapphire ma hope. ʻO ka neʻe ʻana, ka Grand Seiko caliber 9SA5 i loko o ka hale, Hi-Beat, dual-pulse escapement e hāʻawi pololei i nā pulse i hoʻokahi swing a me ka ʻole ma kekahi. Alapine (frequency), 36,000 haʻalulu i kēlā me kēia hola, ka ʻokoʻa wikiwiki kiʻekiʻe +5/-3 kekona i kēlā me kēia lā, ke kaulike nuipa hiki ke hoʻololi ʻia me ka pūnāwai manuahi me ka pūnāwai kaulike helical, ma lalo o ke alahaka kaulike, 47 mau mea makamae. ʻEkolu ʻāpana kila kila kila me ke pihi paʻi. Kumukūʻai $9100, nā kikoʻī ma Grand Seiko.
He nānā i loko o ke ʻano o ka chronograph ʻaʻole wale he Omega Speedmaster hou, he Speedmaster holoʻokoʻa ia i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i hoʻokahi.
Ke hoʻolauna nei i ka ʻike! ʻO ka Mark XX hou mai IWC ka mea a mākou e kali nei (i kēia manawa me ka neʻe kūloko)
ʻŌlelo Aʻo no James Bond: ʻO ka Omega Seamaster Diver 300M i kūʻai ʻia aku e Christie i ʻaʻahu ʻia e Daniel Craig ma No Time to Die
Ka manawa hoʻouna: ʻAukake-08-2022


